Let’s talk about the British Vogue February cover.
9 models of African origin or descent, by British Ghanian Edward Enningful, OBE, the magical lens of photographer Rafael Pavarotti. Arresting imagery of dark skinned models on dark clothes on a dark background.
The intent goes beyond ultimate glamour and beauty, which is what Vogue stands for, the celebration of dark-skinned models of African descent and the weight of Fashion as a future-shaping industry.
The rise of African representation in modeling is not only about symbolism, not simple beauty standards. It is about the elevation of a continent.
The cover is so strikingly beautiful that you can hardly take your eyes off of it and you will want (when I will be able to land my hands on it) to flip the pages for more.
I have had the privilege of discussing the power of this cover with a precious Instagram friend, Kneale (@makeminescented) who for the past couple of years helped me and guided me while “doing the work”. I am referring to understanding, studying, researching and getting acquainted with African American and BIPOC culture. It has meant for me breaking apart from the Eurocentric gaze I grew up with and navigating uncharted territory of words, concepts, trends and cultures.
Learning about the pain, suffering, violence, discrimination, brought me to realize and sadly conclude that in 2021 the words “diversity and inclusion” are still used as a badge of honor, repeated ad nauseam without any slight understanding of their meaning. As a result I have seen obtuse, bigoted and mindless commentaries by Italian white middle aged influencers and journalists that are, to say it politely, cringeworthy.
I am no hero, I, too, am Italian and white and middle aged and will never fully understand the privilege of being born white. However, because I have been keen on reading, asking, researching, willing to make mistakes, asked the wrong questions or said the wrong words, I have become fast at spotting someone that for ignorance feels threatened and uncomfortable when they see more than one person of color together.
The point of the cover is visibility, the focus is not inclusivity. It’s a courageous celebratory exercise. The cover is their dark skin, the glamour, the fashion or the hair are what Vogue does (or should at least do). The beauty is the harmony and the fierce impact of these models doing what models do is so powerful that you need to stare in silence.
So who cares if an Italian magazine has done it before or a white photographer has shot it before? Who cares if the models wear wigs or hairdos that are reminiscing of European standards of beauty? All of the above is of significance to those who say that they aren’t racist because “they don’t see color” the most disrespectful insult that only a racist person could make, coming from a place of discomfort and fear.
The cover is an unapologetic celebration of blackness.