In January, Fashion season begins smoothly and silently with the chicness of a high speed train arriving on the track.
This year the Men shows of Florence and London are contemporary, we’ll see what happens.
Here’s what yours truly has in mind.
As a good Italian from Tuscany and one expat in the US, I have a bias infatuation for Pitti Immagine.
La Fortezza has been the first backdrop of my fashion life, back when Pitti was Uomo and Donna.
Nerd fact: La Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti glamorously hosted the first exhibition that signed the birth of Italian Fashion, in 1952.
Forgive me the namedropping, but Guccio Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo and Emilio Pucci are from Tuscany and they are one of the reasons why fashion reigns in our pores the same as a good Chianti wine and olive trees.
And here it begins.
PITTI IMMAGINE 85
It kicks off on the 7th, just because January 6 is a celebrated holiday (that one that puts all decorations down and brings us back to reality).
My pre-Miami Beach life was determined and catalogued by the seasons opening at Pitti followed by Milan and Paris.
In a flashback, the Christmas holidays were abruptly interrupted by il Pitti.
The looks lined up by day on the bed, just to make sure all was cohesive and coordinated. ‘it’s going to snow, bring the puffer jacket with your crepe blue dress’ Looks involved those spring pieces you had been collecting since the last sample sale. No matter blazing winds or freezing temperatures, you had to endure a spring wardrobe.
'I will see you at the Luisa Via Roma party', oh that was the highlight where, if you had spent New Years in Malindi, it was your moment to shine out of that non-artificial tan (no smartphones or social media then).
(image from The Bespoke Dudes)
Now, I can only be a remote and melancholic audience member [here’s what I went home with last year]. I count on WWD, Style.com and The Sartorialist to see pop on screen my friends working alla Fortezza, reading about the trends and the runways in magnificent palazzo and antique venues where the Medici used to live.
At the same time, if you are brave, gotta face the Brady bunch of bloggers meeting at Villa Cora and parading for 3 to 4 days for the #Firenze4ever organized by Luisa. That’s when Suzy Menkes her ‘fashion circus’ comes handy and couldn’t be more au curant.
Things have changed and clearly not for the better: the path that the Fashion paraphernalia has taken is not as classic and chic as the Carrousel and Rivoire in Piazza Repubblica. Still Florence remains an undiscussed hostess to the mostest with her breathtaking scenarios.
What to expect
On a more mundane and remotely not related wave, Eataly and Laduree are some of the exquisite delicatessen spots where to refresh your palate (as if Procacci wouldn’t be sufficient). If we want to talk about proposals and fashion tradition, aristocracy, heritage, utilitarian, experimental, ‘eclectic tailoring’, rigueur, excellent Italian workmanship, slimmer and closer to the body suits.
LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN
#LCM has begun.
London has been facing a few hurdles which the British Fashion Council has tried to adjust. London is known for that contradiction of being inspirational and fertile for new talents and
You can interpret it as the right place to debut for a new talent as there are not big houses overshadowing, however the bigs add weight to a presence that should be taken into account.
Longevity vs. trends is the debate that in London is reinforced by that Savile Row tradition that balances innovation and current fashion.
Overall, some of the most iconic pieces of a Gentleman’s wardrobe claim their birth place in British sole: wellingtons, the three piece suit, the trench coat, the boiler hat to name a few. Is there any doubt why London self proclaimed itself the home of menswear? [grab a copy of History & Heritage].
In London you can find this
or this
What to expect.
That sartorial, bespoke, rigorous, undiscussed, decadent, sharp, impeccable British men style and a refreshing of a Gentleman wardrobe.
Trends (by yours truly)
Short pants, I mean seriously short hemmed pants,
no more peek-a-boo socks but I-need-you-to-see-my-legwear striped
patterned socks and well groomed long beard which we find very Bohemian and sexy.
Editors, journalists and buyers have already landed.
Cheers & salute, see you at the shows.