#MFW Spring 14 Episode 2: a new 'regina' was born StellaJean

Episode 2 of Milan Fashion Week is dedicated  the n.1 ‘newbie’ of the season: Stella Jean.

She, the talented creation of an Italian-Haitian metissage, was invested royalty status by being allowed to show her collection at nothing less than Re Giorgio’s castle theater in Via Bergognona. A statement of an endorsement. Nobody had been allowed to before. It will be loved and utilized in editorials by the likes of Grace Coddington and Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele. Fine. But, we are craving for the Moda Operandi trunk show pre-order.

• mood the runway makes you happy, it brings you to that summer vacation in Capri or maybe walking down the streets in St. Tropez, definitely somewhere back in the ‘50’s. Everyone just travel to that ideal vacation boundless imaginary world with this runway. Each look owns the power to catapult you into your B612 asteroid planet.
  
• skirts the more you watch it and the more you can hear the swish of those crisp skirts. How about preppy Palm Beach gone naughty? 
• shoes we dig both the stiletto and the slippers with the same impetus. Sexy Marilyn meets Brit colonial elite crust.
  
• jackets those loose fitting cropped jackets reminiscent of the Sixties worn over the shoulders add a touch of chic to the intricate mix of motifs. The mid calf robe manteaux cinched at the waist with a corset like belt with brassiere and pencil skirt peeking from underneath are sexy and girlie enough to make every woman turn heads. 
• pattern clashingdone to perfection, elegance and sense of proportions. Gigantic Vichy checks blend with tapestry like bold botanical and animal prints. If I’d tell you I bought a chartreuse full skirt with gigantic zebra running you’d think I lost my mind. You see and you fall in love with it (you just really need to take yourself not seriously).

Ok enough, I could go on forever. Ladies and Gentlemen here she goes …

 

#MFW Spring 14 Episode 1: is Marni the new black?

What to say if not that in Milan is where we get hit by the I-love-them-all bug and the-fashion-week-of-the-titans fever.

However I rigorously stick to my rule of this season: select one of the ‘veterans’ and one of the ‘newbies’ that I feel betting on, that inspired emotions, that showed once again the core of fashion, regardless of PR, publicists, advertising and the fashion circus, to say it with Suzy Menkes or ‘fassholes’, the new noun circulating the rooms.

So here you go: my Milan Fashion Week veteran winner is:

Marni 

• modern (that last white look … anyone wants to marry me? that last look is perfection),
• sheer sophistication (she’s capable of making transparent look enviable, wearable all day long, chic and the opposite of vulgar)
• true DNA maintained and brought to the next level, like a designer does. Matter of fact, what is it that you want from a designer that you admire and love wearing? That she does the usual but better and she surprises you with beauty and inspires you with a story. Here we don’t have the classics revisited (the death of fashion), Castiglioni took us on her journey of evolution.
• colors: Consuelo you have hit us, our faves
• accessories: those masculine elements like platform flat sandals, squareish shapes and even the plain dull insignificant visor embellished become the ITems to be owned

understated simplicity

geometry is an opinion

My Sheer Lady

bomber + embellishments = forward-ist

did you say funny pack?

effortless unfinished 

the bride

#NYFW and the winner is ...

Oscar de la Renta (bien sur)

because he does navy and white for the ladies who lunch like none else

because of the pastel evening gowns that make you feel like a million bucks

because of the abundance of embroideries and lace 

because of a cohesive, classic, modern, young exquisite collection

because of those white gloves

because of those Swarovsky studded mesh booties 

#LFW Spring 14: the veteran & the newbie

When it comes to London it’s a whole “different pair of sleeves” as we say in Italian.

It might be the vibe, the energy, the posse of the street style, the rain, high tea at Fortnum & Mason and river, driving on the other side of the street or H.M. Queen Elizabeth, but all has that je m’en fous attitude. By ‘all’ I mean that everything that you don’t expect in NYC you do in London from the catwalks to the street.

The fashion caravan moves to the U.K. and you expect wit, grunge, romantic, classic, punk, corky, un-programmed, effortless Brit style. More on the street encounters on our Pinterest board (thanks to The Cut, Style.com and WWD for sharing).

As per the shows, here’s the veteran and the newbie we LIKED.

Temperley London recreated the Sixties with swooshing silks, devores and color blocking. The Mad Men-ish trapeze shifts and evening coats  add that extra zest to the je ne sais quoi (sexy)animalier juxtaposed on flowers of Mrs. Robinson’s memoirs.

Thomas Tait is the promising newbie who reveled its talent for technique, brilliance, tailoring and that exquisite combination of athletic and couture that catapulted him to our Olympus.  Because we love the underdogs and we don’t go by the Instagrammimg swarms of bloggers to like a collection, we got captured by its under toned show and utter simplicity. 

As we agree with Leonardo that ‘simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication’, white as a fil rouge can prove itself tricky and dangerously difficult however it was performed at its best. White paired with a surprising delicate version of acid green and cement grey, with unexpected silver zippers and whimsical colorful ostrich feathers, turned heads at every look. The contrasting effects of see-through silk chiffons with crinkled technical fabrics made it oh so we want it right now.

… next is Milan’s turn

Denim uninterrupted: a fall commodity

Denim is that all-American tradition like eating Pandoro in Italy for Christmas. So where better than NY City during fashion week to learn how to work it ?

No need to be a skinny, tall and young model to make it right. Denim is for all and there’s no discrimination.

1. Use the same judgement you would use in choosing any other piece of clothing. 

2. Denim on denim. It doesn’t mean you have thrown on the first things you grabbed from the closet at lights off. It can be done with class and elegance. 

3. Five pockets are the way to go (and a little Kelly with a Rolex).

4. . From flared to bell bottom there are decades and with them 

5. Overalls do not only mean corn harvesting, but chic Americana. This season, if you are not careful enough, you may even find overalls while seeking love.

6. Mini me. When you are cool chances that your child will be as cool (if not more) are exponential. Go for it.

7. The mini-dress must not be paired with wedges, cork platforms. Tassel loafers anyone?

8. The denim jacket: a must in everyone’s closet. Unless you are HM Queen Elizabeth there are no exceptions.

9. The boyfriend pants with some serious Jimmy Choo or Gucci pumps, croc accessories and a cap can only be irresistible.

Birks are allowed though.

10. Distressed is alluring however there are still parts of the body that need not to be shared with anyone else than yourself, the mirror in your closet and your boyf.

11. Studies of anatomy not mandatory, but preferred. Those gluteus maximus (and medius and minimus) are not to be ignored in the process of trying pants on.

12. High-waisted ones are mythological, but very dangerous since they can go from god-like splendid to sordid and offensive.