WHAT’S HAPPENING.
In the past years, we have assisted to a rising of historical fashion houses that had been temporarily defunct under old patina. Madame Vionnet, to name a glorious one dear to the inner-circles, is being re-interpreted after shutting down over 60 years ago and is now on its route to the original haute-couture splendor thanks to Matteo Marzotto and the 2 sisters. Some other “gold mine” cases of labels dug out of the ashes like the Phoenix are Givenchy with Tisci, Emilio Pucci with Peter Dundas, not to forget the unprecedented genius of Alber Elbaz for Lanvin. Faux-pas there are lots, but we don’t want to mention them here.
The talk of the town, or as we ought to say now, the top trending fashion topic of the entire month are Miuccia Prada and Elsa Schiaparelli, their “Schiaparelli – Prada. Impossible Conversations” exhibit at the Costume Institute (along with the most glamorous event of the year, the Gala).
Schiaparelli’s Lobster dress re-interpreted by Prada
the Lobster’s close-up
SCHIAP.
So: who was Elsa Schiaparelli? Besides being Marisa Berenson’s grandmother, Schiap (her nickname) was a surreally modern sophisticated artist, artist not designer as she disputes in the curated video tour with Miuccia whether fashion is art or not. She created jewelry, objects of decoration and art and clothing in her atelier in Place Vendome.
Italian fashion mogul Diego Della Valle made his moves declaring a prêt-a-couturecomeback, for the few fortunate capable of affording some expensive and unique pieces.
- acquired archives and trademarks in 2006
- following the same tactic he used with Roger Vivier and Ines de la Fressange, recently tapped Farida Khelfa as muse d’inspiration.
- the scoop is it will be exclusively sold in Place Vendome,
- no commercial ads nor wholesale, that is from the Southern Riviera we’ll have to go transatlantically.
- first official runway Paris March 2013
- only two runways per year and not the frantic tour de force of eight.
THE SUCCESSOR.
Diego Della Valle will announce the designer in September, meanwhile speculations flock. Stefano Tonchi (how did he even come out in the equation?) bids on John Galliano, Jenna Lyons confesses she would see Iris Apfel would be perfect as “full of life and attitude”. We only have left to wait until September to know who will let the brand express at its best. Meanwhile we can buy original Schiaparelli pieces on www.1stdibs.com and replicas on Moda Operandi and delight ourselves with the most sophisticated baubles and style.
