how to be Italian, chic, italian style

On why I barely wear make-up

Chapter n.7 of the book says: “Apply make-up with discretion”

I never thought that to make me look more attractive, pleasing, powerful to others I had to wear make-up, not that I was given classes or instructed, it is what I came down to believing.

What I see in the mirror is different from how people see me, and I am told it’s normal, as normal as hearing one’s voice. The first time I heard myself recorded it was like: wow, they are right, and it was in a feeling-good way. Without knowing, I was projecting a sensual me, and I didn’t know.

Same goes with (not) applying make-up and projecting simply me.

You know that question “what’s the last thing you do before leaving the house”? As per my grand-mother’s suggestion we grew up knowing we had to “brush your hair polish your shoes, because … you never know”. Not that other things were less important, those were staples like wearing our own perfume, always carrying a clean ‘fazzolettino’, a handkerchief in the purse, pockets, schoolbag, jewelry on point and a dab of Kaloderma Gelee on our hands.

There was no mention of make-up, of course we were little, but all I grasped from both my grand-mother and mother was: put the Helena Rubinstein red lipstick on either in the mirror of the elevator or the rear-view mirror of the Fiat 500 (my grand-mother was never interested in learning how to drive, that goes to show the level of royal queen-ness, she couldn’t be bothered with traffic lights and parking, she had other stuff to do, besides, she’d move perfectly and independently with her bicycle) .

Then I grew and moved to a country where I ended up living for 20 years yet still being “so Italian I don’t even know how much”.

It was another continent where women wear full-on make-up at the gym (to be honest, it was already weird enough to go be at the gym, but that’s for another time).

When I started dropping Cecilia off to school, it was another eye opener to a reality I had barely acknowledged. I would be wearing my “work” clothes which, at the time, was either Ralph Lauren or Oscar de la Renta, and no make-up while the moms were full-on stage make-up and velour tracksuits (yes, that was Juicy Couture galore) at 8 am. I still didn't get it as, I am sure, they didn't get why I was all dressed up and no make-up, it was for both sides a nonsense. 

Am I lazy? Maybe. Or maybe it's that in the morning we have different priorities: coffee and news in silence are my sacred moment, can't deal with humanity otherwise. That 1/2 hour could very well be occupied with applying make-up by someone else.  

In my routine I have developed my own version of fast and furious make-up session, as fast as you can say altogether concealermascaralipgloss, boom, boom, boom. Which becomes a bit longer, when I have to do the grown-up gig, that includes smokey eyes, rosey cheeks and sparkly highlighter.  

This is not to demean or ridicule, I am just providing my 2 cents on another of the facets of what makes Italian style that insouciant system of putting things together.

As long as what you wear means quality, simplicity, craftsmanship, thoughtful choice, that’s luxury enough to carry it with confidence, no need for any attempt to looking prettier or more pleasing to the eyes of others.

Some may say I use clothes to that purpose instead of using products to enhance my natural beauty and conceal the bad stuff. Yes, it's a fact: I believe that when you feel comfortable within your own skin, you don't need to obsess with strobing, masking, shading, filling, injecting. Maybe I have grown to develop a certain attitude that portrays my confidence, ease and poise, but that doens't include make-up.

I dress "because you never know" like my grand-mother would say you can meet Prince Charles or in Coco Chanel's words "dress like if you were going to meet your worst enemy".  

'In order to be irreplaceable, one must be different' - Coco Chanel 

Leandra Medine, of The Man Repeller, has her own perspective on why she doesn't wear make-up.  

The French have a ton of literature on lipstick, I utterly agree with these 5 quintessential rules of beauty by Coco Chanel that resist as eternal even after over 130 years of her birth. Lipstick, signature fragrance, aging gracefully,  individuality and love yourself first should be the ONLY five commandments (don't tell the nouns of my elementary school) a woman lives by.

I have briefly discussed it with Maria Chiara, of “La stanza degli armadi” or @clarissavintage in Instagram, with whom we are preparing a relay of posts on how to be Italian + vintage and sustainable living. One day she posted a picture sans maquillage and I caught the occasion of asking her why it is that Italians wear little make-up. And here’s what she says:

“By education, from my mother (NDR, who is French), I have never been obsessed with appearance, I have always accepted myself with my flaws and traits and, besides the creams and beauty products I have been using for 18 years, a rarely ever wear make-up.

This is what I am trying to pass on to my daughter: being before having, love yourself before being loved, taking care of yourself is first for self-respect not for appearing, but more than anything, don’t be afraid to be out of the choir.”

As simple as Maria Chiara puts it I hope that it will inspire hundreds of women and girls not to let anyone put them down for their unique characteristics.

Any thoughts?  

how to be Italian, chic

Hurricane Matthew: before, after and all in between

Florida has this thing (too) besides from being the state that everybody makes fun of, we have hurricanes and pretty much nothing else to brag about, except those pink sunsets.

Prepping for a hurricane is something else. 

Let me explain what’s it like to be told to wrap-up all your shit because winds and rain can wipe off your windows, car, roof, doors, power and shoes.

did you say hurricane?

did you say hurricane?

They come with an announcement, the watch (36 hours to T time) and then a warning (24 hours to show time) and pandemonium ensues.

Why? Because we are in Florida, bro!

If you have hurricane shutters it’s time to put them up and then make peace with the fact that you’ll be living in prison for the next days.

The line at the gas station rivals the one at the supermarket where you also have to brave the fight for the cart. First aisle you go to, the water, is obviously emptied.

It gets physical, in my 20 years and several hurricanes I have had fully loaded carts running over my feet. Search for candles, oil lamps, batteries, because the ones you loaded the flashlights with last hurricane may be bad, but, wait, which batteries to buy? Because, bien sur, you left the house without checking, typical.

TIP: calculate 1 flashlight and candle per room, 1 gallon of water per person per day (what to do with the dog?)

Ice, lots of ice split in mini ice bags that will serve the purpose of maintaining food fresh if power goes off and freezer thaws.

Water, still water: when the time comes, fill in the bathtub with water because … you know by now.

Make sure laundry and dish washer are all done … because you know the drill.

coming through, where's the caviar?

Then there’s the food thing.

By now school and office will be closed, the unknown is how long you will be stuck in prison. I am Italian, there’s that. Ain’t no hot dog, rice and beans, buns and corn that will cut the chase in da house. There are several reasons, one is because you can do “junk” with a certain aplomb, you can bake a frozen pizza, but you can also bake a quiche with leeks and camembert (first of the season, BTW), while younibble on brie, pears and walnuts with honey and pop a bottle of Prosecco (I know a chardonnay would be best, but prosecco has bubbles and puts everyone in a good mood), you can bake potatoes and lamb, you can make tagliatelle with lobster, you can have Zak the baker bread with butter and anchovies.

Let them eat cake 

FACT: My “ritual” is to cook and bake while waiting for shit to hit the fan, because that’s when I unofficially start freaking out. Believe me, nothing that a few bubbles will not calm down.

That’s all the physical stuff that goes on a crescendo until when  we are in it and you realize that you ran like an ant to secure everything, you have more food that the house has ever seen in the past 6 months, and now you gotta wait.

That’s when you cross the legs and the foot starts twitching and you pour another glass of prosecco and open the book, page 42. And then "let me check if laptop, phones, iPads are fully charged" (which they are, because you checked 30 minutes ago and nobody used them).

And you go back, page 42 and you attempt to remind yourself that you promised you were going to catch up on all shows of fashion month you hadn’t been able to watch.

Why can’t you run like a maniac and then stop right now, relax and enjoy?

Because they call you from home and they ask you “How is it going? Did it pass by already?” and you have to go back at explaining how does it work and please don’t listen to whatever they are telling you on the Italian TV, and, anyways, we are stuck inside, we can’t see outside from this Alcatraz and we still have a roof and power and I was at page 42.

FACT: during the hours when what-s-its-name hurricane is supposed to hit, you have no clue if it’s really hitting where you are at, if trees are being ripped, if power poles are taken down, you are in an isolation room (or at least what looks like from the movies). 

TIP: do NOT watch the TV, they tell you "it'll kill you and we can't save you". 

FACT: when the power goes down, that’s when you can begin to freak out, legally. 

Hurricane attire: I don’t do sweats or pajama, too depressing.

Rossella Jardini SS17 (See? I caught up with some shows)

Imagine for a moment: you are forced inside, locked in with shutters on every glass surface, literally taped with masking tape in an OCD attempt to prevent water from trickling in. You have compulsively showered one too many times (in case, you know, power goes off), it's understandable that there’s no reason to dress up, neither to slumber.

how about being the first celebrity to wear Gucci SS17 off the runway?

FACT: AC is supposed to be blasting at the lowest temp manageable, get your winter stuff out and pretend it's the fall: cardigan, socks, beanie

TIP: when the power goes off and you are stuck with no window or door to be open you’ll remember how smart you were.

FACT: in 20 years, my first hurricane, insignificant as in cat.1 and can’t even remember the name, I evacuated after having moved the entire apartment in the only two rooms with no windows. Rookie move and I never evacuated again.

FACT: with Katrina a humongous ficus fell on my car 2 hours before the hurricane hit, and for three days it remained under. So much water had accumulated on the floor that tadpoles were born in it when the towing track removed it (in Florida we make up stuff). 

It had never happened to me that we were told: the office will be closed the next two days (which  meant a 4-day weekend) but then the same day the hurricane was supposd to hit, the first one when you did all of the above and you mind is finally OK with being in the dark and no sun you are told: we go back to work tomorrow. Maaaan, my mind doesn't go that fast, i just told you it took me all afternoon to calm down and read. 

Story short: I am still at page 42, quiche's gone, cheese is still good, prosecco finished. 

how to be Italian, slow fashion, the cheat sheet

The crash of the Fashion Blogger Inc.

It happened and from the lips and the fast typing keyboards of the most commercial and ad-driven of fashion magazines, Vogue US. I'll leave this commentary of why I have this opinion on the magazine for later, because the point here is that through an article on The Guardian I have found out the news and the drama that ensued.

4 US Vogue fashion editors (who I follow on IG and admire, because honestly I have always wanted to be working at Vogue, overall) during Milan fashion week, called out fashion bloggers as:

pathetic
trolling
desperate
heralding the death of style
get yourself another business
sad women in borrowed clothes
distressing


#sorrynotsorry

But first, some factors cannot be ignored. 

There's always the generalization that hurts, because it's like "if you want to cook Italian, just add garlic to everything" because hell, no.
There are girls (and the Brian Boy guy) that have built empires and they have worked hard at it, and they pay taxes, and have collections of shoes or whatever under their name.
It must be taken into account that those same fashion editors have been flown into exotic destinations, invited to scrumptious dinners, gotten discounted runway looks. 

HOWEVER, these guys are all stylist, influencers, YouTubers, TV personalities, designers, in other words, the gods of fashion's Olympus. I can't help but wonder, if there have been different professional figures in the business for ages, now all of a sudden some social media fashionista can do it all? 
This needs a little bit of inside knowledge, but, to use the equestrian world as an example, the farrier is not the polo player and although they work together, the farrier will not even be considered to substitute a jockey, or a nurse a plastic surgeon. 

They appear as a swarm, sit front row, snap selfies, Snapchat (used as verb here), post Instastories of the entire runway to show they are indeed frow-ers, get out causing pandemonium, get snapped by the street-style photographer, change and 1) do it allover again if they are the top; 2) go home because they were only lucky to get one account. 

L e t m e a s k y o u "where's the style here?"

The collections are presented not for the crowd in front  of the venue, but to give inspiration of the moods of the next season. 

Do they even read the notes of the designer, like fashion editors do?

Are they obliged by contract to uhhh and ahhh no matter what or they'll be without a job?

Do they have an opinion, know how to formulate one and read through the looks, like fashion editors do?

I barely see a blogger at a re-see, which is when the day after you go to the showroom and get a close encounter with the whole collection, look by look on mannequins, so to hear it from the words of the artistic director, to touch and feel the fabrics, the details, the nuances, the accessories, the story. Like fashion editors do. 

 

OPINION: MY OWN

1. It's a practice that brought to consumerism and conesquently the polluting and un-ethical plague of fast fashion;
2. Lack of self esteem:  they all look flawless, impeccable, thin and invisible size and you are pushed to look like them;
3. they don't have their own style, they wear what they are either paid to wear, post and bring engagement up on or are gifted in exchange of posting and bringing engagement up, double perks if they are snapped by street photogs;
4. they have brought ridicule to the world of fashion, degrading the work of the designers to the It bag or It shoe;
5. they are the reason why I never introduced myself as "fashion blogger" although I blog about fashion and style, I am far away from all of THAT

Where would you find this topic in THE CHEAT SHEET OF ITALIAN STYLE? Everywhere ... but if you want me to be specific, I'd start from Chapter 1 - "The Four Keys to the Italian Way"

how to be Italian, traditions

The do-right woman

THE PARADIGM 

I have started reading a book called "Bitch" a controversial one that Cecilia and I found in a booklegger container we found while walking in Wynwood. The story about the Bookleggers Free Books Please just take one is all in here, and as the creator of the non-profit says: "it's for the people, not just for the tourists or the Wynwood partiers" Rules are simple only get 1 book any extra is $2. 



The book's subtitle is "in praise of difficult women". Tough task that Elizabeth Wurtzel took with wit, badassery and poignancy. So far it is promising, but I am at the very beginning and it's very American. By that I mean, I may come across as naive to some of you as "hello darling, how come you didn't know about the book" type, or maybe annoying as in "here she comes again with the feminism saga". You can never do right. But what does it take to be a do-right woman?

"To be a do-right woman [...] sometimes you have to do wrong"

Veruska, Richard Avedon 1966

SAY WHAT?


You've got to misbehave, it's fine, not that you must be rude, but I think that a bit of Thelma & Louise should exist in all of us. First life is too short, second nobody will give you the crown of badass if once in a while you don't miss school for a matinee of that French movie.

Which chapter of THE CHEAT SHEET OF ITALIAN STYLE would work for this? Chapter ten: "You don't owe prettiness to anyone" 

Steven Meisel, Vogue Italia 1997



In Italian we call them "le ragazze perbene" the ones that do no wrong, the best behaved of the birthday party. But we all know that good chances are, they may have a dark side, something that is not politically correct or that wouldn't get them in the PTA. I call them the "pageants" the ones that always "look" good. 

It may be my generation, my getting older, or being raised in a family where women always ruled, but I am of the unapologetic type and the more I grow, the more I like it.

I don't believe in trying to be "likable" at all costs, because I am a woman and that't what's expected. 

Marie Sophie Wilson


When I grew up, the feminist movement was all the rage, the seventies in Italy, however my mom used to say something like that despite their demonstrations, they haden't obtained any equality. I wasn't raised as an activist and I am not one, but love that Cecilia shares my opinions, is aware of the #heforshe campaign promoted by Emma Watson for the UN, belongs to a club called "Women Empowered" and is only 16. 
And I am damn proud of her. 


All I am saying is we are all Clark Kent and Superman at the same time and that's fine, it's good to own that naughtiness.

WHEN WAS YOUR BEST DO-WRONG MOMENT? 

"The Cheat Sheet of Italian Style" at SOHO Beach House

It was a hot summer night ... I am none like Hemingway, but it was really hot, we were on the terrace of the penthouse at SOHO Beach, right above the ocean, glasses of rose' and iced water ensuing.

We were there to talk about fashion, style and Miami as a fashion hub.

I had the honor to be invited to participate to the conversation alongside with Julian Chang, a long-standing and multi-awarded Miami designer and Hadley Henriette, Managing Editor of Haute Living. 

The crowd was chic, stylish and engaged.

The conversation was relevant, how do we keep up with fashion in Miami? I posed the question because people think that because it's a never ending summer down here, we have it easy. Truth is: it's not as it seems. Yes, we don't have to deal with snow, icy rain, trains and bus, boots and scarves, but hey we miss "sweater weather" and we want to wear our furs, the colors of the season, we don't want to feel like the little cousins in the land of bananas and bikinis. 

I am still a suffragette of the change of the wardrobes from summer to winter even with subtropical temperatures and 20 years in Miami. It's fun, sustainable, saves a lot of money in last minute splurges, it makes you reveal a whole new wardrobe every six months and helps you make calculated choices when it comes to buying a refresher of the new season. 

Julian has its own staples, those fabulous, colorful, body-hugging column dresses that I like calling "tropical couture". He is too humble to admit that he produces his own prints and he manufactures everything in Miami and after so many years of doing so, he must be really good at what he does to not only keep the showroom in Miami, but to have opened his boutique in MiMo, short of Miami Modern, an original part of the city along Biscayne Boulevard that is a hustling and up-and-coming neighborhood. 

It was just after Labor Day and the question popped: white or not white? I replied as low as i could, although I had to deal with a microphone, that rules are meant to be broken. Julian was more diplomatic and fair than me: he said to go with your style and what makes you look better. In doubt, head over the boutique, where he usually peeks in more often than you'd think. The best part of it? You like a dress but not the pattern, or the fabric, he'll adapt it to "what makes you feel better". 

I mean, I wore a golden amphora caftan-like dress with my flat FURRY Lab slides which Julian chose for me. Little that I knew, it was featured on the cover of his new season's catalog which put me on the spot.

I am no model, in weight or size or heigth, I still have to make my rounds around my facial expressions, in other words, I make a lot of faces, yet I felt like the golden ticket. Now when a dress can fit such the opposite sides of the spectrum, its all in the designer. Style is also sensibility and when a designer can be so sensible, it's a winner. 

 

how to be Italian, chic, the Italian way

How to live with style wherever you are

I was selected to take over the blog section of CreativeMornings/Miami, our city's chapter of a worldwide community of like-minded creatives who gather one Friday morning a month. 

This is an ambitious one you guys: the topic of my book concentrated in 5 posts and 1 city, Miami.

Now, don't you even think you will not be buying the book when it comes out, but what I wrote is just enough teasing.

Go ahead and scroll down, click, read, choose and pick what peaks your curiosity, but more than anything answer this: got to the comment and write YES or NO to the following statement

"We don't follow trends, we set them" 

How to live with style in Miami: the neighborhood

TAKE AWAY: stay away from the limelight, don't follow the sheep. 

The closet swap

TAKE AWAY: it's a thing

A summer in the city, that is, when you don't live in NYC nor you spend the summer on vacation, what us commoners do to keep it Haute. 

TAKE AWAY: pretend.

How to be Italian (wherever you are) 

TAKE AWAY: luxury is a state of mind.

 

How to keep up with Fashion, when you don't live in a fashion hub.

TAKE AWAY: You can take the girl out of Fashion, not Fashion out of the girl. 

DON'T FORGET TO ANSWER: are you team #wedontfollowtrendswesetthem YES or NO

chic, how to be Italian, italian style, the Italian way

And the Hamptons of Rome is ...

 

Let’s see: Rome is not on the coast, it has its own beach though, Fregene, as remotely close to the Hamptons as Jersey Shores. But just drive a bit north, a bit south and sail a bit west and you ARE where the Hamptons were invented (sometimes I speak “Mean Girls”).

In a radius of 100 Km. you find Capalbio and Orbetello, Porto Ercole and you go south and you find il Parco del Circeo, Sperlonga (way more south), Ventotene, and with Gaeta and Ponza I mean WOW. I actually think that Ponza could really be its Hamptons. And to give you a hint of the splendor of the beaches, the sea, the seafood, thesunsets, they are on the Mediterranean, same as all the places that the Roman Emperors had selected as their summer residence, like the Amalfi Coast, Sicily, the Eolian islands. 

Now let's read  the article on W Magazine where they tell you that the Hamptons of Rome is Puglia and have a thing or two straightened up:

  1. Puglia is a region, not a city or a neigborohood, it's like Lazio, the region where Rome is. Same as Tuscany that is the region where Florence is. So when you are in Florence you don't "also go to Tuscany" because you already are in Tuscany.
  2. Italy is shaped like a boot and Puglia is the “heel” which lands its beaches on the Adriatic sea, not the Med and there’s a sea of difference, pun intended.  
  3. In other words, it’s like saying that the Hamptons of New York is Georgia, that is, nothing to do.
  4. Distance from Rome to Borgo Egnazia is almost another plane ride. 
  5. After some investigation, because I had never heard of that place before, I found out that's the place where Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel got married. 
  6. NOW you get it. 
  7. Rule n.1 of vacationing in Italy: do like the locals do.

Not saying that whatever they are promoting isn’t gorgeous, spectacular, romantic, chic and all, but it’s like comparing apples to oranges.

On this same wave length:

WHAT TO PACK FOR AN ITALIAN SUMMER

Tank + shorts + flip-flops, fanny pack, visor and gooey white SPF, especially if you wear them ALL together.

one more thing: cappuccino is morning breakfast with croissant, not after lunch or dinner. If you don't believe me, take a peek at the table next to you next time that you have lunch.

More on this on the book: get on the newsletter to stay

how to be Italian, heritage, italian style, slow fashion

Is Made in Italy sustainable?

I know right? If I hear "sustainable" one more time ...

Thing is, labeling has become the new national sport. Are you a millennial or are you not, basicbitches and their freaking avocado toast we can't take it anymore. 

"Sustainable" has been abused to the point that it lost its meaning and it has become a fad. 

Truth is: if we don't go back and resume a sustainable life, there will be no life for the children of our children. Time to take this shit seriously. 

While writing the book, it became evident (duh) that this Italian way of slow living runs at a paste that is a bit contrary to the madness we are used to, where life is a snapchat, comes and goes pouf and you are not even in it, because youa re taken by snapping the picture instead of enjoying the moment. 

#theItalianway as well as the Made in Italy brand has a series of characteristics that when followed and respected make a product the equivalent of a Chianti wine D.O.C.

Because "Made in Italy" should only mean matter-of-factly what it means, but through the years the concept has been stretched.  to the point that sometimes the Country of origin is not the same where the entire process is conducted and terminated. And that's not fair, it's confusing, misleading, inflicts turbulences in the supply chain that feed more the knock-off, fast-fashion industry. Who loses is who plays by the rules.

The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana hosted "Crafting the Future of Fashion" ( #SUMMITCNMI2016 ) a summit in which future, sustainability and digital have been discussed. What’s the vision, plan, prospects for the future, for the new generation of designers and the established ones that, by the way, are going strong. Did you know that Pitti and Milan Fashion Week are the strongest man fashion week in the world?

Status, luxury, quality, craftsmanship, durability, heritage, Made in Italy is also fantasy, perception and traceability.

Sustainability finally came into play. Livia Firth of Eco-Age said in an empowering keynote speech: “the quality of its design and the skills of its people […] that uniquely differentiate  Italy the Brand.” Made in Italy has to protect the heritage of its unique design as well as consider protection and respect for the environment and “social justice in the supply chain”.

What’s sustainability?

According to a research conducted on 3000 Millennials and presented at the summit, it’s related to words like recycle, green, durability, innovation, transparency. Sustainable fashion is a system that survives on its own based on two pillars limited environmental impact (carbon footprint) and social responsibility.

What’s Made in Italy if not all that?

We have huge corporations and small to mid-size companies thriving to transmit the crafts from generation to generation with an eye on tradition and the other on innovation, there’s no copying and infringing intellectual property, it's all about creating, experimenting, proposing; operating machineries and techniques are learned with practice and skills mastered by watching the experts. Traceability: we know where materials come from, or it wouldn’t be Made in. And, because it’s made with love, passion, not disposable nor knocked-off clothing, at the end of the chain we choose it because we appreciate its nature, lines, design, details, we take good care of it and certainly give it at least 30 wears.

On second thoughts: Made in Italy has always been sustainable, it is that now we have to introduce the concept and the label because we are living in a fast-fashion induced world in which buying-wearing-tearing-throwing-away is a 3-month cycle.