how to be Italian, heritage, chic, slow fashion, the Italian way, traditions

On simplifying, poise and sophistication: in conversation with Sabine Masi of Raison d'être

"Dear Sabine,

you have brought poetry into my world of hand-bags, better said, the raison d’être that was missing.

I have never pursued the quest for the IT bag, au contraire, always steered away, naturally and you brought me to the realization that originality is indeed one of the features of a handbag, one that which I have kept ignoring.

A purse is where a woman puts her mood of the day, secrets, her entire paraphernalia of tools that accompany her all through the day. 

One of the main traits of highly stylish people is not to be a copycat and replicate street style looks or bloggers outfits. Your bags have that quality of looking worn and distressed obtained through skilled hands of Italian artisans and they tend to be different and have a personality of their own. 

I will never look at a bag the same way, you opened the door to handbag love with that key that dangles from the purses.

Sincerely, 

Francesca"

Ok I wanted a different opening paragraph and all it kept coming to my mind was all that I wrote, in this open letter to Sabine, the creative director of Raison d’être with whom I have had the chance to have a conversation. 

Get your cup of tea and read along with me.

 

 

How much research and trial is there before reaching the perfect nonchalant point of understated elegance?

There’s only one research, the one to reach the harmony of the form. I’m referring to a cit. from Bruno Munari, the great Italian designer and illustrator.  

Complicating is easy, simplifying is difficult. To complicate all one needs to do is to add, all that you want: colors, shapes, actions, decorations, people, a scenery full of things. Everybody can complicate. Only few are capable of simplifying. To simplify one must eliminate, and to eliminate one must know what to take away, like a sculptor which with a chisel shaves the shapeless stone off all that extra material which exceeds the statue that he wants to make. Eliminating instead of adding means recognizing the essence of things and communicating it in its essential core.
— Verbale Scritto, Bruno Munari

Was it by traveling the world that an all-Italian brand was born?

It’s always been a forever love, that passion I have always read through the eyes of the Florentine artisans when as a teen-ager I used to visit their workshops. My cousin used to take me in the ‘80s, he was the buyer for my cousin’s leather goods store. Knowing the art of hand sawing vacchetta leather and creating objects saturated with that heart-warming smell of leather.  

The bags are rigorously Made in Italy, which became its distinctive seal of approval.  Was that essential to the birth of the brand?

It’s essential, as an unmistakable imprinting, Made in Italy has a precise characteristic. The idea can begin in far away countries, but manufacturing itin Italy completes the circle.

Your bags are like Mary Poppins duffel-bag, where objects and stories live freely. They are born as hollow carriers of the mood of the day, they take the shape of one’s character or philosophy. Do you grow attached to them?

A woman unveils her personality in each purse she owns. It’s her own secret socket and God forbid someone tries to break in and snoop around. 

Your bags are like the portrait of Oscar Wilde whose painter couldn’t detach from them?

I must confess that at times it happens that I too don’t have that exact bag I need for an occasion. It’s like having them all at home, truth is I don’t have that many.

You say that ‘beauty will save the world’ because beauty is over-rated?

For each one of us beauty is different, for me beauty can be represented by vivid colors, for others simplicity can represent beauty, but for everybody good manners, being good to the others are beauty. That’s why I believe beauty will save the world.

When you design a collection or a bag, do you have a woman in mind?

She is a determined woman, positive, confident within her own skin and that brightens a room when she enters it. She’s is not fearful of dreaming, daring and leaving a mark behind. She is a woman that inspires me and transports me to create.  

Intractable means?

It’s the name of the unisex line dyed with an effect called mestizo. They are first deep dyed, dried and consequently overlayed with an ombre’ technique and finally waxed. They end up looking vintage but I chose to call it intractable .

What makes it different from Couture, the limited edition collection?

Couture is a collection reminiscent of the papier peint a line of one-of-a-kind clutches  hand-painted that can be easily be hung on the wall as a work of art.

Chic is …

Chic is distinction, taste, sophistication. Grace is chic.

 

ON HOW TO BE ITALIAN

What’s Italian style in one word, or two?

Creativity

There’s a general idea that Italians are always dressed up, even when we go to the gym, you have been living in different parts of the world, what really makes the difference in an Italian woman?

 Attention to detail.

What’s an absolute no in Italian style?

White socks and monochrome.

Finally, in the book I am giving advice on how to adopt the Italian style: do you think it can be dissected and learned?

Yes, elegance is not reserved to an élite nor to a special way of being.

PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

You sit on a bench in the park and … wait for the swans that come to shore at the end of the day.

Is sexy in the heel or a pair of brogues will do, if played well? Sexy is poise, so even barefoot.

Morning coffee or detox juice?  Purifying water with lemon followed by coffee with soy milk to wake up completely.

You know that summer has begun when … I am in Stromboli.

When I grow up I want to be a soprano   

The book on your nightstand is “La gaieté” by Justine Lévy, I adore reading biographies.

 

 

chic, how to be Italian, slow fashion

In conversation with Barbara Hulanicki: on Biba, swinging London and creativity as zest of life

You don't open an online business that booms into Biba, the 5-story legendary boutique symbol of the Swinging London, nor are honored with an OBE if there'snt something out of the ordinary in you and your name is not Barbara Hulanicki. 

I had the privilege of sitting one afternoon in Barbara's office in Miami Beach where she has elected to live and work. We shared coffee secrets, I listened  to fashion anecdotes as a child at story time, I absorbed every minimal detail I could from her longtime assistant/manager/so delightful I want her as my best friend Likrish. 

WARNING: it is clear I didn't want to leave and I really have exploited Barbara, I think I should apologize for not wanting to stop asking questions, shamelessly. To my defense though, believe me when I say you would have done the same.

 

FB - From Biba to the OBE (congratulations, from fashion illustration to interior design, from exhibiting your own works to working with such visionaires as Elio Fiorucci, Chris Blackwell and the Estefan’s, you are a pedigreed living icon. What’s your secret weapon?

BH - I have to move forward. I love to learn what makes men with a vision tick. They have this direct way from going from A to Z without any distractions on the way. Women are forever life shopping. I find it fascinating to work through other people’s minds as I find I am so predictable to myself and I do find that boring.

 

FB - What was the catalyst that brought you from a small mail-in order business with the dream of just selling your creations to becoming the designer that defined an era in a 5-story department store in the center of London?

BH - I was so lucky to marry a man who one of the A to Z people and he guided me. When I got into a fluster he always pointed me back in the right direction. He never crossed over on the creative side and believed that my ideas were always right. Everyone needs a mate of that caliber.

 

I find it fascinating to work through other people’s minds as I find I am so predictable to myself, and i find that boring
— Barbara Hulanicki OBE

FB - The use of the word icon and iconic has been inflated lately, for the sake of labeling everything and everyone: the IT bag, the Icon XXX Award, the IT girl and the thumbs up Emoji. Biba’s success was fruit of a lot of efforts but organic, it happened because it was the truer than true expression of that generation and those years. Did you know you were an icon and felt the pressure of living up to the expectations or enjoyed the freedom of self-expression?  

BH - I never wanted the business to have my name so would not have to be upfront. It is a full-time job being a celebrity. I like to be behind the spotlight as I can get on with the people watching. This is how you learn in my opinion and you have to plod on, and I am a plodder.

 

FB - Your artistic career evolved in time and space, in a ground-breaking expansion from London to Miami through Brazil. Do you still feel like being Biba or that is a fabulous and cherished glorious phase of your life that reflects into your current YOU?

BH - I get nostalgic about Biba as it was so friendly and genuine, today everything has become so corporate. It is almost a sin to have an individual idea. That is why I love illustrations as no one can interfere with his or her ideas when you are working.

I like to be behind the spotlight as i can get on with the people watching
— B.H. on being an icon

FB – This year marks the 40th anniversary of Giorgio Armani, whose legacy is a forever mark of the Made in Italy, I see some similarity with the Biba look, which by the way, would be much older! I am not being flirtatious just because I am in front of one of my idols whom I have mentioned in my University graduation thesis decades ago, I am referring in specific to the gamine look, tweeds, three-piece suit, floppy wide brimmed hats, wing-tips: am I so off line?

BH - Yes, Biba is fifty years old. The strength of Biba was it was for wardrobe and lifestyle, for the daily working girls. Biba was not designed for fashion shows, or untouchable girls wearing untouchable clothes with exotic backdrops. In Biba, the backdrop was the shop itself. 

 

 

ON HOW TO BE ITALIAN

 

FB - Can Italian style be confined in a one-word definition? And, if so, which one would the word be?

BH - Very solid and beautiful and it always looks good in your closet. The clothes are for very organized women, with no flash.

·

FBAre you of the advice that you can adopt a look, do you think one can learn how to be Italian?

BH - Yes, why not? Your won idea of Italian might be great fun!

·        

FB - You have been an innovator, a pioneer and collaborated with Elio Fiorucci, a staple of a specific moment in the history of the Made in Italy. Do you think the ‘Made in Italy’ still holds its crown?

BH - It will always hold the crown because of the years of beautiful manufacturing. That simply doesn’t go away.

 

FB - Fashion and trends are two opposite pulling forces: right or wrong? Which to follow?

BH - Trends are you mad moments, usually a mistake for YOU.

 

FB - The democratization of luxury brought more style in the streets or, contradictorily, confined it on the runway?

BH - There has to be a snobbery in fashion, It is the unattainable for most women who want just one extremely expensive piece. You have to have the right kind of friends.

 

FB - With years as an Italian expat, I came to conclude that Italian style is that harmonious mix of culture, art, design, creativity, passion and conviviality. What’s the element that comes before anything else according to you?

BH - Mostly creativity. That is the most important.

 

PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

  • Morning tea or coffee?  Coffee
  • When I grow up I want to be:  A film set designer
  • If you had a chance to live in another decade which one would that be?  The 1930’s
  • I never travel without  My dark glasses
  • The book on my nightstand  too many to name, and mostly half read.

 

 

milan and an italian summer

In early June you keep the windows open and the shutters shut, at night the breeze blows through the curtains like a soothing lullaby. Urban sounds like the tram and the cars, people chatting and smoking a last cigarette before going home, the neighbor cleaning up the kitchen table is part of the deal, because yes, he, too, keeps the windows open.

Life extends from the inside to the outside: we hang clothing to dry outside the balcony, some of the most romantic love songs that celebrate love involve a window or a balcony, like the one by Jovanotti that says: “affacciati alla finestra amore mio”, that is ‘come to the window my love’.

So yes, it’s like in the movies. In America we arrive home and finally lock ourselves in, we don’t want anyone intruding, life goes on inside. In Miami, heat and humidity force the lockdown and natural forces mandate survival skills: or air conditioning or life.

In Milan there is the tram.

The cables suspended between the sanpietrini (the typical narrow street stones on the city) and the rooftops, its tracks on the streets are what make it “la Milano da bere”, the quintessential Milan. Life flows outside: you sit in the wooden bench, butt to butt, listen to the usual complaints about the Mayor, the soccer referee (if it’s Monday and winter), this year it was all about the EXPO or the validating machine that doesn’t work as well as the line at the post office where you must pay the cell phone bill (oh yeah, convenient).

In Milan, you end up meeting exuberant and talented fashion designer Marianna Cimini, a regular subject on Scott Shuman’s website and finally buy her famed Ballerina dress.

In Milan you visit 10 Corso Como and find yourself face to face with Mr. Azzedine Alaia attending the dinner the two Sozzani sisters honored him with for the launch of his perfume line. Then, just because you seriously cannot break the front and crash the event, you go upstairs to the Galleria Carla Sozzani where an exhibition of photography of the Futurism era and a special production of Salvatore Ferragamo’s masterpieces greet you ensconced from the crowd. From Marinetti, to Depero, to Pinocchio to the best sole creations of the artisan of our dreams called shoes. 

You walk in via del Gesu’ and stumble upon handbag designer Corto Moltedo in front of his boutique and then proceed to Cova and have the best coffee in three steps: pay, present your scontrino at the counter, the coffee arrives and the cold milk is there.

These things are normal in Italy, but are not when you don't live anymore in Italy and you realize that you miss them.

It's all about the simple things.

Along the Navigli, the Darsena has been cleaned up and dressed up with its best Sunday’s dresses. It became such a destination that it looks like a Carnival parade. The Navigli though are still filled with the most intriguing places for treasure hunting like a store of vintage records, vinyl, CD and cassettes, a used books cove and a special couture like boutique called Davide Gallo (pictures came so blurry that I can't post them, but he has the most exquisite leather accessories).

In Milan, you cross town to a once abandoned industrial area and find a gilded tower called the Haunted House (la Torre degli Spiriti translated in English with a double entendre) that belongs to the acclaimed Fondazione Prada. Personal perception: the hype we got in the US, through media and social media channels, about the new venue was more exaggerated than its acceptance in Milan (at least in my circle of trust).

Did I love the collection? I have seen better and more complete ones, this is the downside of living in Miami and having access to the top private collections of the world.

Was I impressed by the structure? Absolutely.

Did I enjoy Bar Luce designed by genius director Wes Anderson? Yessir.

Staying with the art subject, I paid an impromptu visit to the Museo del Novecento and the intrigue and interest grew with every floor we were walking up on the enveloping spiral staircase that reminded us of a miniature example of NYC’s Guggenheim. Most people stop by the restaurant for its stunning views of the Piazza del Duomo and la Galleria and then, stop. The museum’s pieces carried on with a certain narrative that accompanied me all through my Italian visit: Italy at the cusp of the 1900’s.

Summer calls for book readings (last year was D'Annunzio, this year I ended up tripped for Oscar Wilde) , aperitivo under the stars, free toes and long warm conversatons accompanied by the cicadas. 

What does your summer call for?

chic, how to be Italian, traditions, the Italian way

Lido:the chic summer boutique where confidence and individuality meet

Dear June,

You are the most beloved month of the 12 and you know it. You are the one who makes everyone’s dream come true. You arrive and umbrellas and lifeguards are lined up at the beach, you make spaghetti with clams a must for lunch at the shack by the shore, with you there’s not one day we’d miss the apero at sunset.

That ideal of summer vacation is stuck in our heads and we'll recreate it so the kids will carry it on.

Summer is freedom, happiness, laissez faire, fun, carpe diem, always too short in time yet everlasting in sensations and memories until next time.

The waves hitting the shores, the sand in the toes, the days longer and that desire that upon coming back to town we’ll still keep that distinct smell of bonfires mixed with the fragrance of the saltiness in the skin.

We switch to a bohemian mind, no heels or tight fitting and constricting garments, flat sandals that make your feet look like bare, billowing and sheer dresses worn with nonchalance because what we really need to do is relax, no rules except the simple ones set by the sun: breakfast at sunrise and dinner after sunset.

In between bikini and caftan are always on, one chic handwoven straw bag to carry veggies and bread from the green market in the morning and a shawl for the breeze for the al fresco dinner at night.  

Now imagine if you could have all of the above brought into one boutique by someone who has made traveling around the globe her passion come true.

And now just indulge through these pictures (credit to Carl Timpone) because Lido in Greenport, NY is just all that.

Then, read how magical fairy Heidi Kelso made the boutique that Aladdin lamp bearer of all our dreams and an oasis of all-things summer.  

I rely solely on instinct [...] I have to love it or I don’t want to sell it
— Heidi K. - LIDO

FB - Lido seems to be your home away from home, where you bring in the flair, memories, colors of your globetrotting travels and make them coexist under a roof. Is that how the boutique was conceived?  

HK - That’s exactly how Lido was conceived.  I’ve always traveled for extended periods and I would scour every area I visited for new finds looking for rare, unknown or exceptional items to bring back home for myself.   Upon my return people started asking to buy what I was wearing, or ask me to bring them the same things back from my next trip so I thought it would be fun to create a 3-month pop-up store for all my great finds.  That was four years ago.

FB - We want to move in and perennially live in the exhilarating state of a summer vacation where objects, fashion, art, beauty and stories speak and live freely. How do you do it? 

HK -  I’m still trying to figure that out myself!  For buying I don’t have a background in retail so I rely solely on instinct.  My rule is simple – I have to love it or I don’t want to sell it. Almost all my travel is to beach locations around the world so I love curating a collection and creating products with a relaxed beach life in mind.  I shop and produce in four categories – resort wear, jewelry, accessories and home furnishings.

A LIDO state of mind is about a transitional wardrobe that can go from day to night
— Heidi K. - LIDO

FB - Let’s say an ideal wardrobe is made of 10 essentials, where should one start from with a Lido state-of-mind? 

HK - A Lido state of mind is about a transitional wardrobe that can go from day to night, and a lot of layering. When I travel space is limited for packing so I like simple, elegant pieces that can be worn with flats during the day and wedges or heels at night.  A great scarf is an essential piece in cashmere linen or cotton, and ironically this seems very Italian to me! They accessorize any outfit and they are practical. At the moment I am obsessed with the Greek sandals hand made in Mykonos that we are carrying this season.  They are incredibly chic and perfect for city, country or beach.  I also love long, flowing maxi dresses for summer and we tend to make those each season. 

FB - Do trends interfere with the rigueur of timeless?

HK -  Certain items become trendy are actually timeless even if they are having their moment.  I’m not a big fan of trends overall since I believe in individuality and don’t like seeing everyone in the same look.  I think it’s really important to dress for your personal taste and body type. I have so many items I’ve had for over 10 years and you would never know it.  That’s the beauty if timeless dressing.

Chic is confidence and individuality

FB - Chic is …

HK - Confidence and individuality.  It’s also a certain charisma but again that’s often a result of confidence.  It’s also about an overall look and how one puts oneself together.

FB - In selecting one-of-a-kind pieces do you have an ideal customer in mind or it’s just your personal taste that decides. 

HK - I always shop for myself, meaning if I like it I am confident in selling it.  I want to have a passion for what I’m selling and genuinely believe in the product.  I always stock one-of-a-kind special pieces and they are usually the first things to sell. 

FB - Can rigor and femininity coexist in a woman’s wardrobe?

HK - Absolutely.  I think it’s down to the person wearing the look, how they put it together and a certain attitude.

FB - Luxe and bohemian are not usually combined, but you make them blend perfectly

HK - Ah thank you.  I think over the last few years there’s been a shift in that perception.  ABC Carpet personifies luxe/bohemian beautifully as does Donna Karan’s Urban Zen.  Morocco is the ultimate destination of bohemian luxe.  Many of our products are simple, relaxed pieces but made from luxe fabrics and textiles.

ON HOW TO BE ITALIAN

FB - You told me “Italians do casual well”, which I love very much. Can you tell a little more about it?

HK - Italians personify chic.  There’s a simple elegance to causal that always looks polished and crisp, yet very relaxed and natural.  It’s difficult to explain because it’s not easily defined in writing.  I think of it as effortless yet sophisticated.

FB - What’s Italian style in one word, or two?

Timeless elegance

FB - There’s a general idea that Italians are always dressed up, even when we go to the gym, but you have a slightly different concept that actually seems more accurate.

HK - I think they dress with care and have a natural inherent sense of style.  They generally look neat and put together regardless of what they are wearing.  Many Italians do get very dressed up, but I gravitate toward the sophisticated yet laid back style as mentioned above.

FB - When summer begins, the resort towns like Forte dei Marmi go back to life, people reopen their family summer homes, plants flowers, store and restaurants reopen, the open air theater or cinema clean-up for business, the beach clubs set shop up again, and North Fork sounds like that. How Italian is that! [this is for me to remember, you don’t need to answer J]

HK - It’s exactly the same!  Right now I am out East and everything is re-opening – summer houses, farm stands, stores, restaurants, vineyards etc…Everyone getting their boats read and there’s a real excitement in the air because it’s the start of the season and summer Is right around the corner.  This is my favorite time out here.  It’s locals only right now before the summer swell.  

PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

You sit on a bench in the park and … people watch or read the paper.

Is sexy in the heel or a pair of brogues will do, if played well?  It’s both. Sexy comes in all styles – it’s not what you wear but rather how you wear it.  

Heidi goes to the museum or loves street graffiti?  Both

You know that summer has begun when … The fisherman that show up in front of my house to get the first catch of the season.

When I grow up I want to be doing … exactly what I am right now but I would like to extend the brand to source for other brands in addition to my own and curate boutiques in my favorite small 5-star hotels around the world.  

 

Meet you at Lido sometimes this summer? Meanwhile, don't miss anything and follow them in your social media of preference

Twitter:  @LIDOWORLD

FB - /Lidoworld

Instagram - /Lidoworld

 

heritage, traditions, how to be Italian, the cheat sheet, chic, italian style, the Italian way, slow fashion

ARQUISTE by Carlos Huber or why any olfactive experience you have ever had until now sucked

I first met Carlos Huber at his personal appearance at Babalu in Lincoln Road on a Saturday afternoon and the relationship that I thought I had with my own perfume, Patchouli from Reminiscence, is never been the same.

His genuine passion, presence, exquisite manners are contagious. Go ahead and read the interview and watch it: you will end up recognizing yourself in one of those characters that inspired his fragrances. 

And this is totally fine: the Italian way.   

Name

Carlos Huber

Occupation

Fragrance developer, architect and historic preservationist.

I live in

New York City

But I am from

Mexico City

FB - You were drawn into art and architecture and graduated with honors in Historic Preservation (congratulations!): do you think it’s never too early to be exposed to art and history?

CH - Absolutely- never too early and never enough (for me at least). I think learning about art and history makes us more appreciative of the world we live in, its beauty, its value and the hard work that people put into it make it better.

FB - Is a fragrance an olfactory reference that defines one’s style?

CH - Well said. Fragrance is THE olfactive reference that defines your style. It’s your conscious choice to define your style through scent.

FB - Is there an age when you become the owner of your own fragrance?

I don’t think it’s the same for everyone. But I think as you live and start accumulating memories, you start gathering scents that ‘belong’ to you. You can own a perfume bottle, but your heart owns what’s inside.

FB - What’s an absolute no in choosing a fragrance?

CH - Worrying too much if other people will like it. Fragrance is first and foremost for YOU. It’s NOT always about seducing others, it’s about pleasing you. Sometimes we can be our biggest critics- we look for validation in others and forget to be kind to ourselves. 

FB - Does a fragrance define a woman?

I don’t think a woman is defined solely by one aspect of her style. Fragrance is part of it, but it would be simplistic to define every nuance and shade of your personality with one perfume, however complex it may be, you cannot compare a human life to that. I think that’s why a fragrance wardrobe sounds more inclusive. In any case…fragrance DOES help define that which is shapeless but essential in a person. It helps express who you are inside.


ON FASHION

FB - Fashion and trends are two opposite pulling forces: right or wrong? Which to follow?

CH -I prefer being loyal to style more than to fashion or trends…

FB - Do you think that the democratization of luxury has brought more elegance and chic in the streets?

CH - Yes, I think there are more ways for people to develop their own sense of style through what is available out there.  


ON THE ITALIAN WAY

FB - I am compiling the first Dictionary of Italian Style and I am asking everyone for a one word definition. No pressure here, but you will be mentioned: what is that noun, adjective, mood, person or scent that says Italian to you?

CH - “THEATER”

FB - Finally, do you follow rules when it comes to dressing or you just go with the flow like a jazz ensemble? 

CH - I follow certain rules, but I also like breaking them once in a while. I think it’s a little bit absurd to be that ‘religious’ about certain things in life.

FB - Where do you think Italian women are different, if so?

Italian women know how to be extremely stylish and sexy while being warm and down to earth.

PERSONAL & CONFIDENTIAL

FB - Morning coffee or run?

CH - Both!!!

FB - If you had the chance to live in another decade, which one would that be?

CH - I love ‘time traveling’ through books, movies and visiting historic sites or museums. I certainly do fetishize certain eras for their art, aesthetics or specific stories of interest…but the more I learn about history the more I am content to live in the present. That’s why I enjoy it so much – it grounds me and makes me excited for the future.

FB - When I grow up I want to be …

CH - Wise.

FB - I never travel without …

CH - My camera.

the cheat sheet, the Italian way, how to be Italian, italian style

warning: do not read if you don't wear a pajama shirt and jeans, icecream on one hand and a cappuccino on the other

Would you ever expect Camilla and Alessandra as 'human version' of a website called Ordinary Seaman?

I mean, the 'ordinary seaman' (OS), in Italian 'il mozzo', is the lowest rank in a merchant ship and honestly the least figure to associate to fashion, elegance, chic, jewelry, perfumes, heels and all that jazz we always swoon over.

Never judge a book by its cover?

Sometimes it is the people that no one imagines anything of, who do the things that no one can imagine.

If you have watched 'The Imitation Game' you have been impressed by the quote, and not because of Benedict Cumberbatch (yeah right), but because in a conservative England of Churchill's tenure, a woman or a homosexual couldn't possibly occupy a position and have a role that, indeed, a woman and a homosexual did.

 

Same with the OS: they tell you what they think about normcore and why if you don't account Iris Apfel as your muse you shouldn't even be reading their blog posts.  You'll learn to love discovering young fashion designers, you will start wearing pink a lot, not only on Wednesdays, and you will end up adding quirky butterfly stickers to you MacAir. 

And because I love my nightime job as a writer of all-things 'the Italian way' I had a blast interviewing them. 

Why did I decide to feature them in this page? 

You be the judge. 

FB - I really think that Ordinary Seaman is the Italian version of The Man Repeller: what is the secret to your style that keeps you unique no matter what?

OS - Well, wow! Thank you so much, but we think The Man Repeller is über alles! We love to be funny, colored and we don’t take ourselves too seriously. If fashion is a circus, why can’t be our life too? Our style is a mix of John Huges' movie 'Pretty In Pink' and a cup of cornflakes. We’ve a milkshake style.

FB - Can you still be sensual and feminine without wearing heels and bandage dresses?

OS - Yes, we must do it! We need just a red lipstick, a good perfume and the perfect haircut! No matter what you wear, if you feel sexy no one can tell you otherwise. Any example? Our favourite pajama shirt and a pair of skinny jeans. what else? Oh, yes! A cornetto in a hand and a cappuccino-to-go in another.

Trends and good taste: clash or follow the same path?

Clash! Trends don’t always mean good taste! This is the game: no rules except one. It’s funny to wear prints all over and skip a monochrome dress, but what’s the limit? Unfortunately, the limit is ourselves and not everyone was born with a good taste.

[A NOTE: I have warned you that there's a point where Italians do it better]

What makes you drift away from preppy and matchy matchy and still be cool and feminine wearing ‘pink on Wednesdays’? 

Our adventurous spirit , our curiosity, our personality. Sometimes you can't feel yourself in a pair of paint shoes, even your friends do it. Sometimes, you are fascinated by something new, sometimes, by something old but in a new way. Sometimes, you want be yourself so..just do it!

What’s an absolute NO in the Italian way of dressing?

White terry socks. Hey babe, it doesn't matter if you are walking in a new pair of Prada flats because if you wear terry socks, you suck.

Head over to the comment section whether or not you wear white terry socks, my alter-ego Edna Mode and www.OrdinarySeaman.com will forgive you too.

 

heritage, traditions, slow fashion, italian style

Marianna Cimini, where common sense, courage and recklessness meet

It all begun when I saw this picture on the Sartorialist while doing a research on how to wear chic black in the summer. 

READ THE FULL STORY HERE 

That dress was love at first sight and I needed to dsicover whom was it from, besides, that girl looked "so Italian she doesn't even know how much". 

Comes out the designer herself, Marianna Cimini, was wearing the dress, I was able to track her down and the conversation that is unfolding is the result of my  "stalking" her on Instagram.

And then we liked each other. We have yet to meet, though, since she lives in Italy and me in the U.S.

Here'e what we've talked about.

FB - From being an intern at Max Mara to be chosen by Marion Cotillard: what drives you?

MC- Common sense, courage and recklessness in equal proportions.

FB - What happened when you saw yourself in the Sartorialist? [You know that is where I have discovered you frist?]

MC - I have always followed The Sartorialist. So when by coincidence I bumped into Scott Schuman in Milan and then saw myself published, it was indeed fun and exciting. Coincidence wanted that the dress I was wearing when he photographed me, was one of the ones I am the closest to, the “Ballerina Dress”, which then became a basic iin every season.

NOTE TO SELF: Gotta have it on my closet, remember Santa’s list.

FB - What’s the first piece you have ever designed?

MC - I adore outerwear, it's my refuge in the winter, my passepartout when I travel, so the first piece I have ever designed and fully hand-made  was a coat made of 21 inlays of tweed and a navy woolen double crepe. Matching everything to perfection was what I can call now that little big dare!

FB - How much of your personal style is in your collections?

MC - I never design anything that I wouldn’t wear. I am always trying to create pieces that can be recognized, but without a cumbersome and overburdening personality. I structure the collection with different layers of interpretation, so that each client has freedom to personalize it  according to their style and physique.

FB - What’s the mood board of the Fall ’14 range?

MC - A longing for separation, a newfound femininity, and the acute awareness of a new beginning are the key ideas for the F | W 2014-2015 Collection. The focus is on the heart, both figuratively and visually: an intersection of graphic lines that becomes allegory but also protection and shield. The lines are soft and rounded, becoming especially generous in outerwear pieces. Skinny tailored trousers and skirts add an element of sharpness as a contrast. Iconic piece of this collection is the “Goodbye Coat”. The print, a symbol of lost and fragmented memories, was inspired by incomplete mosaics by renown Ital­ian architect Giò Ponti. The embroidery is a metaphoric, feeble link to the past: a series of small drops to retrace old steps. The color palette is bright and luminous, an injection of energy balanced by softer hues.The collection plays with traditional pieces trying to re-create them in a new light, and giving them a second life.This is reflected also in the small accessories offering: a seagull flying into the horizon is the ultimate message of freedom and carefree elegance.

A long for separation, a newfound femininity, and the acute awareness of a new beginning
— Marianna Cimini on the inspiration for F|W 2014-2015

FB - What was the catalyst that started it all?

MC - A profound devotion for this profession and a good dose of determination – without those two elements surviving and growing from one season to the other becomes impossible, since difficulties and obstacles that an emerging brand encounters are never-ending.

FB - The quest for the little black dress is boring or a challenge?

MC - A marvelous challenge! The black dress is timeless, every woman should own at least one LBD in her wardrobe perfectly tailored and of impeccable fit. I haven’t chosen the path of confrontation with the classics of fashion history; let’s just think for a second of the magnificent dress designed by Givenchy that Audrey Hepburn wore in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. I have tried to draw a new route, all mine, in which I have tried to combine practicality with elegance defying the element of time. That’s how the “Ballerina” dress was born.

FB - There’s rigor and powerful femininity in your collections: what do you attribute that to?

MC - Cleanness and minimalism is how I reach the essence of femininity, with no make-up or tricks!

FB - You have been a finalist at “Who's on next” sponsored by Vogue Italia and Alta Roma and crowned among the 2014 Vogue Talents, so, first, congratulations. What is next for the Marianna Cimini brand? 

MC - The one goal we are working towards my brother Andrea and I is to reinforce and grow our distribution net.

Now Marianna, some quirky question for the Marianna Cimini herself.

FB - You sit on a bench in the park and

MC -  Reading a book, drinking a cold beer and smoking a cigarette

FB - Is sexy in the heel or a pair of brogues will do, if played well?

MC -  Brogues all my life, maybe to pair with a pristine white man shirt. It's is not like me being sexy in an expected way.

FB - Marianna goes to the museum or loves street graffiti? .

MC -  I am curious by nature and adore exploring, especially during my trips. I’d say first  museum, then street graffiti followed by  a good dinner.

FB - You know that fall has begun when … 

MC - When I start craving for the traditional Christmas sweets. 

Thank you Marianna for your time and such a positive disposition. I can't wait to finally meet you in Italy and put my hands of that Ballerina dress. Meanwhile, you guys, head over her website www.MariannaCimini.it and get the scoop. 

When in Milan: the Stella McCartney showroom, a Gipsy and other stories

When I am visiting Italy I have this strange frenzy, a FOMO urge of not sleeping just in case I am missing something. And although family is always a priority, this time was lots of friends catching up. 

Moving around in Milan means a bicycle with a wicker basket or the tram. This is how it looked, an usual Monday afternoon in July. More a July-going-on- November if you forget the temperature.

No panic: grab the Mackintosh or buy an umbrella for 10 Euros from the guy at the corner and hop on the n.5 with an all-day pass.

[I am digressing here for a sec for a taste of #italianstyle]

I walked by a tabacchino and bought the tickets. A sweet memory of my youth is the smell of the tabacchino, a mix of wood, tobacco and wrapped candies one of those specialty stores that only exist and survive in Europe, where they sell cigarettes and any legal smoking accessory, candies and chocolates, the lotto and phone cards, oh and public transportation tickets. 

So, by the time I made it to via Tortona it was still raining, just those sprinkles through which you can walk and not get wet. 

The sweet thing of having friends is that after years it feels like yesterday, you are phone call away. 

Trends come and go, style you don’t buy.
oh yeah, I snapped it ...

oh yeah, I snapped it ...

It was a late afternoon press day and the showroom was hustle and bustle, I was able to touch and feel the collection while buyers were still writing numbers and waiters serving sparkling water and cruditees. I was sitting on the couch next to the sign and was catapulted back to those Jil Sander summer breezy days. 

Pride, happiness, contentment all under the rain that was thin and persistent.

Friendships resist years and miles of separation can spark lively conversations about anything from life to vitamins.

Trends come and go, style you don't buy. Meanwhile Alice became a super blogger, a whimsical stylish one that cooks and 'speaks love' in poems while wearing lace and red nail lacquer: A Gipsy in the Kitchen aka OttaLoveMuffin.  

And you've got to love her as there's no one like her.