AN EXCLUSIVE DAY IN FORTE DEI MARMI

There’s a code and I think I cracked it: It only took me 20 years of Miami living to dig out how to live in the Italian riviera like a local. 

It took just one morning, the morning of the Wednesday street market in Forte dei Marmi, our version of Palm Beach, in the good season, the summer, during my trip to Italy was a revelation.

Imagine the Agnelli, Giorgio Armani at one point owned a home here too, Thomas Mann, Henry Moore, Luchino Visconti, old money and noble families populate the mansions behind the discreet gates, pines, oleanders. And then there's il Bagno Piero, the beach club of the front rowers. If you have the tent in row n.1 you have accumulated a Anna Wintour type of seniority. And then la Capannina di Franceschi, a sort of Studio 54 of the roaring '60s when Gino Paoli and Ornella Vanoni were IT. 

There’s a diffused sense of elegance, relaxed and chic, understated lifestyle made of simple yet luxurious things, there's no showing off Ferrais or Lamborghini, you actually do errands, go to the beach in the bike. The morning starts at the bar, if you want to make it posh it's Il Principe. You know there's a bar at each and every corner in Italy, you go, pay for un caffe', show the recipt to the barista, order and in a NY minute you gulp it down and leave. There's no alien language just un caffe'or a cappuccino, not a skinny latte with an extra shot kids temp, they don't need to call your name, it's a ritual, but it entails a mix of attitude and discretion, respect for your privacy, it's a question of sleekness and rapidity, when you want a coffee can't wait.  

Well, al Forte, even the barista seems a magician, they are as fast at manifesting that caffe’ as you should expect from a barista, yet the noises are tufted, voices are soft and coffee cups are china, not clunky basic ceramics. 

So here’s when the luxury is a state of mind enters in action and the whole reason I wrote the book with it. How about getting dressed to go to the market?

CAN’T LIVE WITHOUT: Linen, layers of whites, gold bracelets, bicycles and wicker baskets, cashmere scarves, silk foulards, les paniers, flat leather sandals, wide brimmed hats, children in prams and nannies.

GET CAUGHT DEAD BEFORE: Wearing high heels pumps, allover logos, It girl bag, the same furry Gucci loafer that all influencers wear or any knock-off.

BTW, you will find random street sellers offering knock-offs of all the above on the curb of the street over a white bed sheet that comes handy when the police come.

WORST FAUX PAS: Trying too hard: it shows that you don’t belong, it’s not about the money and wanting to be who you are not, is never a good idea. And, no coffee to go in a plastic cup, ice cream though it's a different story, it's a cone on the go in the bike. 

WHAT TO BUY AT THE MARKET: The best items to be bought at the market in Forte dei Marmi are bed linens, bathroom parures, pajama sets all to be embroidered with initials (they place your order and the following week you come back for your personalized items); cashmere anything like sweaters, scarves, ponchos. Leathergoods, especially shoes and bags  are the best showcase of what Tuscan craftsmanship is capable of: leather, cotton, silks, prints all made in family owned looms and labs and proudly represented, generation after generation. 

DO THE SUMMER LIKE THE LOCALS DO: FIRENZE & PITTI EPISODE

I attended another Pitti.

For many it's still a dream that hasn’t happened, especially since it became the man/main event par excellence, “peacocking” included. I explain the whole story about it in the book, in the “Borrow from the Boys” chapter and I will not be repetitive.

From 1992 it evolved, changed, expanded, went online, expatriated, cancelled the woman, added a small woman representation, now cancelled it again. My “relatore” the person that introduces you and kinda mentors you through the extenuating preparation of the final thesis in university was Luigi Settembrini, the then communication director and creative consultant of Pitti.

Florence is the place where in 1957 Italian fashion was born with a defile’ in the Sala Bianca in Palazzo Pitti, where Gianfranco Ferre’ made his man collection debut, where the men socks Gallo were launched. Guccio Gucci and Marquis Pucci were home buddies. Firenze is where you breathe history, culture and fashion like nowhere else in the world, it’s the noble of the family of the fashion capitals.

This seemed the perfect backdrop to hold a workshop on how to feel empowered by maintaining your own style in the world of fashion. Part of the job of #luxuryisastateofmind and making all look effortless chic was done by the J.K. Place and its director, Claudio Meli.

What to do like an Italian, or, in other words, how not to look like a tourist.

·         Don’t confuse Pitti Immagine with Palazzo Pitti, Santa Maria Novella the train station, the basilica or the farmacia;

It's ok to walk the streets with that feeling that Caterina de' Medici will show up around the corner with one hell of a damask gown and a cascade of emeralds: it happens to the veterans

·         Scudieri is for the orange zest dipped in dark chocolate, winter or summer;

·         Ice cream is at Perche’ no

·         Don’t be stars truck, play it cool; They are all peacocks, some are fake, the real ones don’t hang out at the entrance of the Fortezza;

·         Be aware, you may find your friend from 20 years ago

·         Go local, like follow Claudio Meli’s footsteps, hang out at the J.K. Place and make yourself acquainted with "the other Florence" the artists and artesans of the sublime.

·         Don’t wear logos, branding or, for that, any cheap Zara knockoffs of logos and brands

The Cheat Sheet of Italian Style // Book is still found HERE and HERE (if you live in the UK or prefer using the Pound). 

In Florence with PattyJ.com: How to be Italian

You know Patty J. for our lonstanding Insta-friendship from before she was voted, two years in a row, Best Lifestyle Blogger of Rhode Island. She is a powerhouse, a busy and professional blogger, she takes her job seriously, she is generous and provides space in her platform to businesses and creatives like me. She has a soft-spoken voice for all things of the arts, a sweet tooth (I mean guys, she is a serial brunch killer!) and a knack for traveling and visiting new places, whether in her homestate or abroad. 

This past spring she visited Italy on a trip that took her to Rome, Amalfi, Capri and Florence, and here are her thoughts about How to be Italian. 

As someone who hadn’t been back to Italy in close to 20 years (Yes, I lie about my age!), the truth is that I really didn’t appreciate it fully until I went back last fall.

We spent two weeks touring Rome, Amalfi, and Florence. Most of this time was spent with a tour company, but we were also fortunate enough to have a few extra days in Rome and Florence before flying back to the States. Even better news? We knew someone who had dual citizenship in both the USA and Italy and arranged to meet up with her in Florence. 

“The other difference in Florence was the magical architecture and of course, the people.”

— Patty J.

Once we stepped off the train, we immediately noticed a stark contrast to most of the stations we’d experienced in America. Those had usually been filled dirty, dank, unappealing places. This spot, however, looked well maintained (clean even) and like somewhere you would enjoy passing a few hours.

The other difference in Florence was the magical architecture and of course, the people.

Something that stays with me is how our Italian counterparts can take a sneaker (or kick or track shoe) and wear it back to a classic black pant, tailored trouser or even a skirt, but do it with a flare and panache. So that it comes off as almost effortless elegance. I can’t put my finger on it, but Italian style definitely mixes casual and dressy in a way that makes me quite jealous. 

“Throughout our Italian journey, style was, in effect, all around us and we felt as though it was woven into the fabric of the culture itself.”

— Patty J.

Another point of style that I wish more Americans would adopt is men wearing scarves. I saw lots of this in Rome and Florence. And I’m not talking about for warmth or utilitarian reasons. This was all about adding a scarf to add some interest to an entire outfit. If only the guys in the US would reach for a scarf before another tee with a sports team logo (or the dreaded gray sweat pant that never seems to fall out of favor in their wardrobes), then I think the sartorial inclined among us would definitely be much happier.

In Florence and throughout our Italian journey, style was, in effect, all around us and we felt as though it was woven into the fabric of the culture itself. It never seems forced or deliberate. It was more authentic and organic somehow.

That being said then, it’s my wish then that all of my fellow Americans are able to pay a visit and pick up some of Italian inspiration.

Now you get it why if you don't follow Patty on Facebook and Instagram you are missing out?

The 5 ways to do it like the Romans do

Young in Rome is what you need to make you want to travel to Rome right now. It takes the chaos out of the equation and in Rome, as you may have heard, it's the equivalent of magic.

Flavia and I crossed paths while I was writing the book thanks to our common friend Gabriella Contestabile of www.sumisurajourneys.com We have this thing for Italy, books, the power of the written word and some genuine curiosity for all things beautiful. 

This post is all you need to read and memorize if you want to walk around the Eternal City as a local, because who wants to be a tourist?

View fullsize

Piazza Minerva

Your tickets are bought, pet-sitter found, and time off work approved—you’re finally taking the trip you’ve been waiting for and heading straight for the Eternal City. You’re wondering, of course, about what to see, where to eat, but most importantly, what to wear. Rome has its own gusto, or flavor, and you want to tap into that Italian flair, strutting down the street and holding your own with all the fashionable Italiani. To help you with that, I’ve compiled a short list of tips ‘n tricks for you, from what clothes you may want to pack to a couple of the must-see sites, and of course, some foodie recommendations!

1.       Style like a Roman. A good rule of thumb is to always add in your own flair, your pièce de résistance. Even if you’re just wearing jeans and a t-shirt, throw on something that makes you want to dance a little down the street: a colorful scarf, an amber necklace or a turquoise ring, fuchsia sandals. Romans love to celebrate—we love life, we love color, and we love to dare, so this is absolutely the place to pour your joyfulness into your outfit!

View fullsize

Piazza Navona

2.       Caffè. It’s a serious thing, and for the Italians, it’s almost a religious one. Not only is caffeine essential, your morning espresso in the local bar is an important social ritual, a chance to people-watch and gauge the “temperature” of the day: you’ll find people chatting about the day’s news, covering everything from international politics to “can you believe she wore that to the baker’s daughter’s wedding?” As we say in Italy, tutto il mondo è paese, meaning that some habits (in this case, gossip) are common all around the world. 

Wherever you are staying in Rome, find a local spot to have a hot coffee every morning, and please remember that one does not partake of a cappuccino outside of breakfast hours. If you must have something milky in the afternoon, allow me to recommend a caffè Marocchino, consisting of a shot of espresso, cocoa powder and a touch of hot milk/froth. Oh, and of course, no matter where you are staying in the city, you must visit the Antico Caffè Greco, one of Rome’s most famous coffee bars, located a few steps from Piazza di Spagna.

View fullsize

Pantheon

3.       Explore. In Italian we say Roma, una vita non basta—Rome, one lifetime is not enough. Rome is a jewel, and the best way to see her is by getting lost wandering her cobblestone streets. If you’re looking for a fun, easy way to see the city, check out Young In Rome’s audio walking tour: it’s a 50-minute, 1.25-mile walking tour of our favorite ancient spots that are linked to the greatness of Emperor Hadrian’s Rome, hosted by none other than Antinous, the best tour ghost from the times when Rome ruled the known world. He’ll take you from Castel Sant’Angelo to Piazza Navona, to the Pantheon, the Temple of Hadrian, and on to Piazza Venezia!

If you’re setting out to explore the city on foot, read this article on the top 10 free things to do in Rome, a short guide on how to find everything from the Caravaggio paintings scattered around the city to killer views and the vintage market.

View fullsize

Paris in Transtevere

4.       Eat. There are endless opportunities for delicious food in this city, but the best advice is always to head away from major tourist destinations when you’re hungry, and find a tiny little spot, preferably run by an Italian grandma, where you can settle in for delicious carbonara and vino bianco served by her gorgeous nephews. Ahem. Short of this, head to the Testaccio neighborhood to eat at Flavio al Velavevodetto, or if you’re in Trastevere, scoot on over to Paris in Trastevere.

5.       Fill your eyes with beauty. Depending on the time of year, there will be something amazing to do, whether that’s getting the chance to have a night tour of the Colosseum, going to the opera (which during the summer months moves to the Terme di Caracalla, an experience I’d recommend to anybody), or going to a summer concert in Borromini’s courtyard. Depending on the season, have a look at what’s available: in Rome, adventures are year-round.

View fullsize

via Borgognona

All that’s left to do is to climb aboard that plane and be on your way! And, of course, here’s the most important tip of all: do your thing and be yourself, because the Italians will love you for it, and in today’s world, it’s becoming even more important that we travel and celebrate each other’s cultures. So wrap that scarf fashionably about your neck and tie up those sandals—let’s go!

To live vicariously, follow Young in Rome on Facebook and Instagram. 

the 36-month Parmigiano Reggiano is like a grande dame

It's a fact, the 36-month old Parmigiano Reggiano is a diva, like la Gina Lollobrigida, quite a statement, but well deserved.

Like my friend Maria would say: “it’s like l’olio nuovo, you don’t waste it to cook, you sprinkle it sparingly and must be enjoyed in small portions”, and here you have to imagine the Italian gesture of touching thumb and index finger together emphasizing the small

La dame of the Parmigiano family elevates a plate and a meal in a dialogue of all senses.

Maria and I met at an event hosted by a local art gallery intended to promote UN Women – United Nations Entity for Gender Equality and the Empowerment of Women because yes, 

"Where women are more educated and empowered, economies are more productive and strong. Where women are fully represented, societies are more peaceful and stable."

-UN Secretary-General Ban Ki-moon

The gathering turned out to be more than the usual air-kissed one, conversations spanning from Art Basel pandemonium we all equally long for and dread, the similarities and extreme differences of growing up in Italy vs. in Connecticut in a family of Italian (and a few other) origins and how to empower young women transitioning from orphanage or foster care to an honorable and brilliant life and avoid looming homelessness.

How did we end up talking about il Parmigiano?

Put two Italian women together, wait 10 minutes and a recipe will manifest, in this case the Thanksgiving stuffing was the culprit. What else to expect other than Parmigiano in the recipe? Every family recipe has one famous secret ingredient, and sorry, but we take our Parmigiano seriously and we drive miles, even through holiday madness. Same for Pandoro at Christmas or the Italian Nutella, which, if you didn’t know yet, is the only one that tastes the real deal.

We may not have resolved world problems, but we:

1.       made an action plan for those young girls,

2.       nominated the best place to find the real Parmigiano Reggiano in Miami (other than in my house right now), 

3.       spoke Italian with a good dose of hand gestures and irony,

4.       declared the 36-month old Parmigiano the 'great unifier', from a plate of pasta con le cime di rapa to the all-American Thanksgiving’s stuffing.

Il Parmigiano is that cheese that still holds up to its fragrance, flavor, taste, rituals and perfection of nine centuries ago and for it it’s now a POD (Protected Designation of Origin).

Straight from Fornovo, where it comes from  

The characteristics: it’s the old one of the family, grainy and sandy, bit dry and crumbly, aromatic, intense, tangy.

Wines to pair it with: red wines with a certain character, like Barbaresco or Chianti D.O.C., sweet wines like Passito.

One more from the curiosities: even lactose intolerant patients can eat it.

Happy Thanksgiving!

My second post as Parmigiano Reggiano Ambassador. Here’s my first post. 

That time we ate a 4-pound chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano

Tonight in Italy is #PRnight2016 that is the night dedicated to celebrate the one and only Parmigiano Reggiano #theonlyparmesan

I accepted the investiture of Parmigiano Reggiano Ambassador as it is: a diplomatic role of story teller and in the next three months it is my intention that you all become acquainted with the Parmigiano Reggiano. It's just a cheese, you say, but it's ingrained in our culture and lifestyle, in slow food and zero mile approach to nutrition that it can be adapted to many other cultures and experiences. But as usual, you must follow some rules.

Really, the only thing I have to say is that there is only ONE parmesan, which is the one produced in the province of Parma, in Emilia Romagna (the one in the middle of boot, north of Tuscany and south of Lombardia). Parmigiano means 'from Parma'.

Why? Because to produce it there’s one rule above all that must be respected: use whole milk from the cows that live there. Very simple: soil, sun, cold, winds, trees, vegetation, seasons it’s a whole ecosystem that cannot be reproduced anywhere else.

Thinking of what parmigiano means to us, I came down to many depictions and adjectives, none of them is related to calories-count, fat content or tin container in the supermarket aisle.

CURIOSITY: Italian pediatricians recommend introducing Parmigiano Reggiano to 9 mo children for its content of calcium, protein, vitamins easy to digest.

I know some friends will be shocked or maybe even offended, “here she comes again, with the Italians do it better” but if you spar me a few minutes, you’ll get the point.

Convivial is the first adjective that comes to mind because:

1.   There’s no Italian fridge without a chunk of parmigiano

2.   My maternal grandparents

3.   My childhood

Imagine being in front of this nearly 4-pound slice from a 14 months Parmigiano Reggiano wheel at room temperature? All I can think of is a house full of people, wine and chatter, bread crumbles allover, maybe a fireplace, laughter and clicking glasses, something organized last minute, where friendship or family are more important of the formality of all glasses and plates matching.

Some of my friends and people that I have met in these two American decades of my life, had no idea THAT was parmigiano. It comes down to a cultural divide that the cheese itself will reconcile.

My story is very simple, and it’s a window to a typical Sunday in an Italian province.

After Sunday mass, we’d go to my grandmother’s for lunch, the five of us and it was a jovial and happy closure of the week (except for my father, the son-in-law, but that’s for a different time.) We’d buy the fresh pastries at the “pasticceria” and we’d make it to my grandparents’ apartment where the aroma of ragu with the bone of the “arista” simmering was mixed with the pungent smell of the shoe creams my grandpa used to polish his repertoire for the week, dark brown and black.

It all revolved around the kitchen and the covered balcony while the table was already set with embroidered table cloth and linen napkins in the living, where life was shared with a slow lunch, lots of chatter, maybe figurines, games, lots of laughter and screaming, no TV and limited infiltration of the scents of the kitchen.

When the water was boiling and grandma was ready to “buttare la pasta”, pour salt and past in to cook, my grandfather’s task was one of the best ones I have ever enjoyed: grating the parmesan to pour over the steaming pasta on the table.

The best part of that grating business was that he had two different chunks of parmigiano, quite the treat. My grandmother would always buy two different ages, 24 months to grate and 14 months “per I bimbi”, that is “for the children”.

And boy if we knew!

We would roam around grandpa like bees around the fig tree, he would let us have chunks “without anyone seeing you” (and by that he meant his daughter, aka my mother, because if we ate before sitting at the table, we wouldn’t eat the meal.) And that wasn’t it: when we’d seat at our designated post, which sometimes was a separate table just for the kids, the secret was to look on the main course plate, hidden by the pasta bowl, because chances were it was decorated by mini morsels of parmigiano all around.

Now that’s my story, a very sweet and tender one because yes my grandfather Bruno was a sort of a Santa all year round, but I am sure thousands of my Italian peeps and readers have their own grandpa version of the Parmigiano Reggiano.

HOW TO ENJOY THE 14 MONTHS:

·         Room temperature

·         Over a wooden board

·         Cut in bites

·         Enjoy profusely

·         Red wine (don’t tell my brothers, but I even go with prosecco and rose’ in the summer)

·         In the fall: pears, grapes, olives, the first sausages, artichokes or mushrooms under oil

·         In the spring and summer: strawberries and the real aceto balsamico or why not figs

·         Aperitivo and also when you have last minute friends over, remember it’s a perfect meal that provides the right amount of calcium and there’s no kid who doesn’t like it

SOME THING YOU NEVER DO (to look like a pro):

• Ask to pour it over any pasta with seafood or shellfish. That’s one of those things like asking for a cappuccino after a meal, that’ll give you the foreigner passport.
• Throw the rind away. Secret is, when you make il minestrone, the vegetable soup, you scrape the dirt off the rind and throw it in and let it simmer. You are welcome.

THE ITALIAN WAY: according to our grandmother’s recommendations, you don’t buy grated cheese punto!, because “you don’t know what they grate, they use the left-over of what they cut from the rind” and I spare you from the rest of the horrifying conspiracy theories of what we were told it was contained, but rat’s pee was the most decent.

TRUTH is the real Parmigiano Reggiano cannot contain shelf-stabilizing additives nor can be dehydrated. NOW you know why the whatever brand powdery stuff they sell in a non-refrigerated aisle at the supermarket is a sign that it’s not an Italian thing. Makes sense?

MAKE IT TO THE COMMENTS, I WANT TO KNOW YOUR STORY OR HOW THIS WILL MAKE YOU CHANGE YOUR FAMILY STORY

Is Made in Italy sustainable?

I know right? If I hear "sustainable" one more time ...

Thing is, labeling has become the new national sport. Are you a millennial or are you not, basicbitches and their freaking avocado toast we can't take it anymore. 

"Sustainable" has been abused to the point that it lost its meaning and it has become a fad. 

Truth is: if we don't go back and resume a sustainable life, there will be no life for the children of our children. Time to take this shit seriously. 

While writing the book, it became evident (duh) that this Italian way of slow living runs at a paste that is a bit contrary to the madness we are used to, where life is a snapchat, comes and goes pouf and you are not even in it, because youa re taken by snapping the picture instead of enjoying the moment. 

#theItalianway as well as the Made in Italy brand has a series of characteristics that when followed and respected make a product the equivalent of a Chianti wine D.O.C.

Because "Made in Italy" should only mean matter-of-factly what it means, but through the years the concept has been stretched.  to the point that sometimes the Country of origin is not the same where the entire process is conducted and terminated. And that's not fair, it's confusing, misleading, inflicts turbulences in the supply chain that feed more the knock-off, fast-fashion industry. Who loses is who plays by the rules.

The Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana hosted "Crafting the Future of Fashion" ( #SUMMITCNMI2016 ) a summit in which future, sustainability and digital have been discussed. What’s the vision, plan, prospects for the future, for the new generation of designers and the established ones that, by the way, are going strong. Did you know that Pitti and Milan Fashion Week are the strongest man fashion week in the world?

Status, luxury, quality, craftsmanship, durability, heritage, Made in Italy is also fantasy, perception and traceability.

Sustainability finally came into play. Livia Firth of Eco-Age said in an empowering keynote speech: “the quality of its design and the skills of its people […] that uniquely differentiate  Italy the Brand.” Made in Italy has to protect the heritage of its unique design as well as consider protection and respect for the environment and “social justice in the supply chain”.

What’s sustainability?

According to a research conducted on 3000 Millennials and presented at the summit, it’s related to words like recycle, green, durability, innovation, transparency. Sustainable fashion is a system that survives on its own based on two pillars limited environmental impact (carbon footprint) and social responsibility.

What’s Made in Italy if not all that?

We have huge corporations and small to mid-size companies thriving to transmit the crafts from generation to generation with an eye on tradition and the other on innovation, there’s no copying and infringing intellectual property, it's all about creating, experimenting, proposing; operating machineries and techniques are learned with practice and skills mastered by watching the experts. Traceability: we know where materials come from, or it wouldn’t be Made in. And, because it’s made with love, passion, not disposable nor knocked-off clothing, at the end of the chain we choose it because we appreciate its nature, lines, design, details, we take good care of it and certainly give it at least 30 wears.

On second thoughts: Made in Italy has always been sustainable, it is that now we have to introduce the concept and the label because we are living in a fast-fashion induced world in which buying-wearing-tearing-throwing-away is a 3-month cycle.  

How to master slow living in Miami

THE ITALIAN VERSION OF THIS PIECE is here   

The beauty of Miami's winter comes in bits and pieces and it’s like slow life, almost comparable to spring blooming in Italy. There are no delicate violets or wild strawberries though, still palms and peacocks crossing the streets.

When the time for the Miami Beach Boat Show approaches, the atmosphere changes. As a good native from Viareggio, the luxury yacht capital of the world, as too Italian in America and too American in Italy, I like playing lady of the house for a week.

Talking about peacock-ing I feel like one of those stereotyped Pitti peacocks strutting down Collins Avenue and reading all those names like Azimut, Benetti, Mangusta, San Lorenzo and I find it difficult stopping that smile where pride meets “yep, I was born there”.

Two decades and a citizenship later, I feel entitled of a bit of snobbism. Overall, I wouldn’t be the suffragette of Italian style had I not moved to Florida. While living in Italy, I took it for granted. Not sure how Italians do it better came about, but it has over 250K posts on Instagram and I know it sounds a tad something from Ellis Island immigrant, but frankly, i find it hard to disagree.

To complete a Made in Italy panorama, when you stroll down Lincoln Road’s green market and find a booth with the most special yes simple and humble Italian products such as colatura di alici di Cetara (!), the true aged aceto balsamico e the Accademia Barilla’s olio di olive taggiasche, all you need is a bunch of fresh asparagus tips.

Without insisting and sounding a broken record, this goes to show that Italian style is made of everything, it’s style of life composed of traditions, artisanship, luxe, quality, time, a healthy laugh and humble elegance even in a piece of bread with olive oil. 

View fullsize