THE 'MASCULINE FEMININE' IN THE fall 17 MAN SHOWS

It's not cocotte, it's not gamine, it's not Annie Hall or Marlene Dietrich, it's all together. 

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This article on Another Magazine makes the case of Annie Hall self-styling on point. Her eyewear are considered an accessory to show her nerdiness. 

It's that blending of the tailoring elements notoriously belonging to a man's fashion and re-interpreting them with feminine attributes. 

In the book I have dedictaed a whole chapter to the art of "borrow from the boys". When to present the collections, see now buy now and incorporating girls and boys in the show has become a practice. 

I have collected the most inspiring looks. We don't all have the same opinions, but if you are reading we share similar taste and style. Juts remember the word "inspiring" because some of them bay be seemingly outrageous, but dissecting all the elements are there for us to grasp. Style is not copying, it's interpreting as your day unfolds. 

"It's Oscar Wilde, it's military, it's dandy, it's aristocratic, it's romantic" Alexandre McQueen's Sarah Burton pays a tribute to Oscar Wilde, in case you hadn't gotten the hint. 

Thom Browne was a show of sartorial uniform dissected, the glorification of Harrys Tweed in all 1,200 yard, as per WWD. 

Miuccia wants us all to be "more human, more simple, more real". Nerdy is good. 

The future is female ... 

Styling and crackin' for the holidays: connect with stylists on the go

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from www.coveteur.com

Imagine a purveyor of style on-demand from the comfort of your home and it’s not a robot. Yeah, a one-on-one conversation with a personal stylist that will result into a red carpet outfit or a total haul-over of your closet and, still, the only technology involved, is the screen.

It’s personal and intimate, sometimes he or she becomes your own confession channel like your best friend, you know those conversations that remain in your closet? Only difference from that "I have nothing to wear" confession with your friend, with this one you get your wardrobe resolved.

If you are not intrigued enough, I will add that you don’t need to go to the mall, stand in line, you’ll get first hand access to whatever goes public when it’s already public, and you are still sitting in your armchair.

To me it sounds like a Carrie Bradshaw dream.

StyleReply is an online platform that provides on-demand personal styling service, or in other words, it doesn’t matter where you or your personal stylist are, you can be a screen-call away and resolve the outfit for your office gala during lunch time.

Let’s say you need wardrobe assessment and clean-up: open your closet and let the professional do the job while you sip a glass of rose’, at the end of the session you have a pile of clothing for charity, the other to send to consignment or online resellers, you’ll monetize on your wardrobe dead branches and will regenerate life with shopping for the right pieces. I just wrote 300 words of things you can do, and you haven’t moved from home.

It’s a win win, the professional stylist has the flexibility of traveling for assignments, maintain the clientele and make it grow all by having an internet connection. The client has the privacy, the ease of a meeting that is not delayed by traffic or other annoying intermissions and has 24/7 access to professionals that will help with capitalizing in what s-he has instead of running like a headless chicken and falling in the trap of fast fashion smoking mirrors.

It’s competitive, sustainable, supports recycling, reselling, quality and peace of mind, which can be priceless.

There's much more to this: closet rehab (don't we all need this??), guided style shopping, digital lookbook, online shopping (you guys this is heaven), professional look (because sometimes we have corporate attire to respect but we can't bear how boring it is) and wedding styling. For the non-committers, there are 15 mins and 30 mins image consultations that will seal the deal.

To get to know a bit more about how revolutionary StyleReply is, I was privileged enough to be invited to a Kit and Ace Supper Club, otherwise known as collaborative consumption. It was a meeting of the minds, many talented stylists under the same roof sharing a delicious dinner and stories about travels in far away places and new projects, an incubator of ideas running around clothing, beautiful, glamorous and comfortable clothing. 

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A hot summer afternoon of skinny-dipping

It's the dog days of summer and rated R headlines are all the rage, especially if you are vacationing, sipping rose' under the striped umbrella at Soho beach house. If you are cooling off in Montauk, you are not exhonerated either, this is a headline that is supposed to attract the highest traffic. 

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You will not be disappointed.

In chic-landia (here)  you know not to expect #OOTD, celebrity spotting or make-up tutorials because 

1. we don't follow trends, we set them;
2. we don't believe in the force of the outfit-of-the-day, because what works for me today doesn't necessarily work or mean anything for anyone else's body or wallet;
3. we wear "barely there" make-up, instead we take skincare as religiously as the morning coffee;
4. also, we don't wear skinny pants and this is a long story you'll fid more about in the book 

So, what the heck are we talking about?

Thank you for reading until here, because what's about to unfold is as juicy and sultry as skinny dipping. 

For real.  

It all started with a bunch of wild girlfriends and a conversation in which we established that European women wear lingerie outside the boudoir, yet also go braless when they feel like it, and that includes the beach (with a certain filter when children are prancing around) because we don't fancy tan lines.

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ombre' sequinned bikini

Then, it continued with the reality that when it's time to start wearing a bra, in Italy, we are accompanied to the lingerie store where the expert sales associates (aka, the owner that has dressed the entire family, generation after generation) find us THE bra. 

That everyone's size is composed by a lot of elements, the ribs, the breast, the shoulders, her posture, her walking and sitting habits that cannot be just confined to a number and a letter. 

That whatever the bra is, a triangle, under-wired or balconnet, padded or semi-padded, lace, tulle, lycra, cotton, it is supposed to make us feel naked, it doesn't show, mark, cut, shows too much, holds the breasts enough not to make it overflow or unflattering.

That we hand-wash said bras and let them dry flat.  In other words, Sophia Loren in her heated 1963 movie "Ieri, Oggi, Domani" didn't do anything far away from reality. Not that every Italian woman looks as damn sensual while manipulating black stockings and garther, but that stockings, bras and underwear hanging in the bathroom is pretty much a true scene as that truth that we talk with our hands. 

As you can imagine, the conversation went BEEP and exponentially happier by the many chilled glasses of rose' circulating. Shortly after, it was decided to all go spend an afternoon at La Perla, the quintessence of Italian lingerie, to make all gf's acquainted with the wolrd of luxury lingerie and feel a bit closer to Sophia.

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I can read anything, even a catalogue

My first job in Miami was in the showroom of La Perla from where I was representing, distributing, merchandizing, marketing, speaking, breathing, wearing their bras and underwear to the Caribbean. And you may imagine how, walking into the boutique, was for me a joyful flashback, to when I had the luxury to be handling every day the most gorgeous collections and was privileged to fit their sample size as a glove. 

Reminiscing of all the techniques, history of the looms and the family who used to own La Perla, sparked up the passion again and the desire to know more of a luxurious world that one can wear without anyone knowing (or maybe only the ones that should know.) 

Lace under-wire or removable pads? coffee or prosecco anyone? is blush or white the most neutral color? fuchsia or sapphire lace? bralette or triangle for home lounging, Leavers lace or Chantilly? laser-cut or soutage bathing suit, hand embroidery and the Maison collection. 

It was a deep-dive into a world where every piece is luscious, sultry, plush, luxurious, alluring, evoking a moment between you and your skin. And there you have the skinny-dipping. 

How easy it is to get used to luxury? Luxury is a state of the mind that prescinds from the monetary value and allows you to be a kid again. Anyone can be a queen for a night, a moment, an afternoon, just act "as if" to feel that richness that nobody will be able to take away. 

On second thoughts, an afternoon at La Perla should be required by law before obtaining a license to be a woman. 

The minimalism game is like Pandora's Box, it keeps producing results

wardrobe staples by ChocolateHeels

How would you feel if the Ghost of Christmas Past would come and tell you ‘this month you’ll get rid of 461 things because it’ll free the mind, bring abundance, energy, happiness that your Santa list will take a whole different spin'?

In the month of November I have participated in a minimalist game, commonly known as minsgame. Rules are clear and simple, would say minimal if the pun weren't poorly executed: in a month you eliminate things from the house in an exponential crescendo, the first of the month 1 thing, the second 2 things and so on until the 30th. Think twice, because you don’t really know if you can do the 20, 21, 22 things a day until you face the dare.

My game was called Minsgame BOSS from the initials of the 4 bloggers, Break the Twitch, One Girl Two Cities, Simply Save and Social Sarah, who took upon, conducted, directed and completed it masterfully, with grace and ease.

The practice of minimalism has percolated through certain circles as the new age, a new way of living. Wasn’t it to be expected? As any recurring historic event, in the years after the latest 2008 recession, mindless consumption is no longer cool. Leaving the mall with tons of shopping bags is considered trivial and crass (unless you are a stylist in search of a last minute change props).  Not to consider the rush to Black Friday’s insanity or to the launch of another designer collaboration with H&M.

Not for the faint at heart, minimalism creates discipline, forms a way of thinking. I haven’t been stung by the bug of the Japanese art of decluttering brought to you by famed author Marie Kondo. Gotta say, I am already enough in love with my shoes that I don’t need to implement a supplemental reverence ritual, they hold the highest spot in the shrine.

Declutter is a thing, and there’s more to the discerning eye than just getting rid of stuff. It begins there and penetrates through the deep cracks of the will of not wanting. All unwanted elements that populate the house, either visible or stored, filed, folded, wrapped and hidden create what I think of as chatter, not healthy coffee shop chatter, but the mean one, like that bad voice that tells you: ‘remember me? I’m that friend that gossiped about your divorce while I was buying you this birthday gift and writing this card that you are saving in this box”. Pouf, of the like of the Ghost of Christmas Past, you really don’t want them. 

“Declutter is a thing, and there’s more to the discerning eye than just getting rid of things”

A KonMari example shared by Buzzfeed

MY TAKE

I found it one of the most liberating experiences. I tend to be very Italian when I least expect it (duh), and that is a Country where we rarely move, we live in the house where we were born until we get married, and there’s always enough attic to keep stuff. The habit of keeping is deeply rooted, we don’t toss, throw, dispose, we use all the leaves of a lettuce,  and we don’t challenge ourselves with the question: why? As I was getting ready to move for the non-Italian 6th time in 20 years, it was the perfect occasion.

WHAT I LEARNED

·         Funny part, through the month, the more things were eliminated, the more people joined the challenge, creating a domino’s effect like one of those chocolate fountains where you dip strawberries.

·         I don’t need to keep all the Christmas cards, bows and wrapping papers from birthdays past, wedding notes all guarded in boxes to keep the memories. The most important word in the above process is memories and those exist whether or not you look at the card. Besides, the above mentioned memorabilia had been guarded in those beautiful decorative boxes and never been looked at.

Preach it girl: how many of you has ever looked at the wedding cards after sending the thank you notes?

·         Clutter absorbs bacteria, dust and ill thoughts. Clutter insinuates itself in the mind and becomes addictive, like junk food, the more you have, the more you want.

·         Finding drawers filled with electronics made me feel like a hoarder, literally. Why would you keep stuff like the first version of a Blackberry (may RIP) or of an iPod? Move on already.

·         It hurts, at times you feel empty, you want to cry, a part of you has been trashed, burned, donated. In truth, it’s only a part of a past you and keeping it alive is counterproductive.

·         Parting is good, find the reason for parting from things, just do it, keep the momentum, don’t stop. Your lifestyle has changed, your body morphed with the years, you moved to a different climate, you divorced, you found the love of your life, all of the above.

·         I became an adamant promoter of ‘save the planet’: can’t possibly think of tossing the unwanted in the trash, not good to the environment nor my conscience. In Miami is not easy to recycle and if you attempt to properly dispose of polluting materials you are looked at a nerdy bohemian from the 70s With this project, I have found out of many new outlets that would make a treasure out of my trash, none or few in South Florida. 

the KonMari shared by Goop 

SOME SPECIAL THOUGHTS ON HOW TO HANDLE THE PRUNING OF THE CLOSET

1.    Clothes that no longer fit are to be tossed, because honestly they will not ever motivate you to lose weight;

2.    Exquisite quality, designer, made-to-measure, evening or occasion pieces belong to a different category that is kept, cherished and passed from one generation to the other. This may be an old continent habit, considering that in this Country mobility and space are of the essence, those ‘heirlooms’ may become an extra volume. Trust me in this, when you open those garment bags your youth comes out bright as a sunray and there’s nothing more energetic.

3.    Wardrobe essentials we know are a must, however because you may recur to wearing them several times during the year, they get worn out easily, you need to give it extra attention and care. Hello, that beautiful white blouse from Dolce & Gabbana, how many times you have received compliments and felt like a million dollar babe? The yellowish stain under the arms will come like the law of gravity for perky breasts and wrinkles, but that’s when it times to move on.

4.    What to do with what you are consciously uncoupling from?

Here is where another part of me gets really adamant: be environmentally conscious. Mother Nature is utterly generous to us, and especially when nobody around me seems to care, it hurts me. I try to lead by example, with all my imperfections, I am no Saint Francis of Assisi.

Unwearable clothing I shred and use for dusting, mopping the floor, fluffy threads of wool I cut and even use as pillow fillers;

Repurpose: consign, sell online like Ebay, donate, gift anyone who will benefit from what you previously loved. Talking fashion, the most coveted sites for the designer’s addicts are The Real Real and The Outnet.  Vestiaire Collective is the latest that collects pre-loved designer clothes from

Recycle, upcycle, and down cycle are different concepts that are cool again, according to Sass Brown who has dedicated the latest years of her career to decode the re-fashioning of fashion. I have met her at The Fashion Project in Bal Harbour, I bought one of her books 'Refashioned' inspirational, fascinating and innovative.

A SIDE NOTE, SIMPLY GLAMOROUS THOUGH: Talking about pre-loved garments, did you know that Margaret Thatcher’s wardrobe will be auctioned off at Christie’s.

Fashion month: don't go anywhere before you read this

Minimalism is not an option, the runways have shown boldness, it loud and clear. The consumer is

increasingly global, mobile and trans-seasonal  - BoF

Taking over from New York Fashion Week that seems so long ago, I’ll follow with London, which has always been rich of innovation, eccentricity, individuality, creativity and wit. This spring summer my favorite were Emilia Wickstead and Paul Smith, crowned by the royal highness of Burberry. 

Well this year not as much as Milan’s fresh breath of air, new energy, enthusiasm and renewed sense of birth.

Gucci Gucci Gucci

Michele’s particular skill is to make the past look like something the future might crave – Tim Blanks

Then there was Jil Sander’s sublime architectural lines and more cloche, or bucket hats.

Oh no, wait, Prada: one word in Miuccia we trust, one of the best collection in seasons. I am afraid I can’t say the same for Miu Miu. I have always been a Miu Miu girl this one seemed a tad too forced.

Giorgio Armani concluded the week with a ceremony in celebrating the first 40 years of the maison.

How about Marras, Andrea Incontri, N.21, Marni and Erika Cavallini?

Paris is always the glitzy-est of all, the City of Lights that never disappoints.

Chanel included bien sur. 

Stella McCartney, Christian Dior, Dries van Noten , Rick Owens, Alexander McQueen, Valentino, Rochas, Vivienne Westwood, Lanvin

And, yes, I am a die-hard fan of Yamamoto

And to conclude, i recommend keeping in mind and liking eventually: 

yellow or at least adapting hair color and make-up to the new season’s color, bucket hats, vertical lines and geometric games. Just saying. You are welcome.

august in 1 minute

IN FASHION TERMS

• Nathalie Massenet left Net-A-Porter, suddenly and unexpectedly for the most.

Could the merger with Yoox really have been the last drop to fill her bucket? You will thank me and The Business of Fashion for the whole story. 

• Style.com is GONE. It is now called Vogue Runway as it was incorporated by Venus-fly-trap US Vogue. I am not a reader, fan nor follower of the Wintour-ed brand and I enter the new era with quite a load of scrupulous questions. I will have the answers as early as next week when Fashion month kicks-off in NYC. The moment of truth though will be when the caravan migrates to Milan.

WHAT HAPPENS IN ROME

• Shut down: everyone is on vacation.

I have worked every August 15 as usual and still, after 19 years, it still bugs me that nobody in the US knows what Ferragosto is and nobody in Italy remembers that.

It is what it is, frustration like confetti.

HURRICANE COUTURE

• Scorching hot: 1000% humidity with temperatures in the high 90s is no good. Anybody willing to convince me that this heat is sexy, chic, elegant and acceptable?

B R I N G I T O N

• August 24 is my friend Fernanda's b'day and the anniversary of the most devastating hurricane that recent history remembers in the Southern Riviera.

That doesn’t make Fernanda a natural disaster, but right up that alley, first week back-to-school we went though the first hurricane scare.  We all bought water, supplies, food, wine, champagne (I don’t drink beer) that will last until Thanksgiving when we will end up donating to Miami Rescue Mission. Trying to make us all look good here.

Note: alcoholic beverages will not make it there, as, some of you may already know it, I have been inducted to the “wining mothers” Hall of Fame.

But this is another story.

• Remember that switching wardrobes every 6 months business? Get ready ‘cause it’s around the corner   

the Miami Swim Show: 5 things the media hasn't told you

Before everyone goes on vacation, how about a review of what we’ll wear to the beach in December? Just to have us salivating for the covetable and longing for that bikini-bod we don’t have yet. 

The SwimShow does to Miami Beach what Pitti does to Florence, NYFW does to NY City. Or maybe not. I like thinking of a Swim Week street style.  It was all reduced to half-naked models running from show to show trying to catch-up breaths with #soMiami lateness. 

After 30 years, we call it the Swim Show, it was once organized by IGM and sponsored by Mercedes Benz, but ditched last minute earlier this year.  All strings pulled in a Miami way, the show went on.

We assisted to a showcase of what Miami can give best: legs for days, disproportionate unbalance of exposed flesh vs. fabric, palms, pools and booze.

We recovered the overload of beauty with a juice cleanse for life. 

Let’s go down to business and find out trends and the best according to me - de gustibus non est disputandum. As it happened with Pitti, I went for talent, innovation, inspiration and quality and left the big names to the big media outlets. 

Julian Chang chose the Ritz Carlton. He opened the ceremonies, swept away red carpet and landed the who’s who of socialites on first row. Vertiginous slits, those that you can't say where they begin or end,  rivers of sequins and glam. and a swim capsule collection  worth wearing in a Ted Lapidus pool, sipping champagne.  Imagine a Slim Aaron photo session  for vibrancy of colors and plastic forms.

Dijana swimwear showed at the Bass Museum, a venue that grants a certain status. A museum is not for anyone, but the Bass allows for everyone who attends a first row seat along the ascending ramp. Djiana transported us to a world rarely associated with fashion, a soothing spiritual realm. She expressed her inspiration with recurring symbols like bamboo, triangle, lotus flower and values of symmetry, sensuality, purity. Even with imperceptible bikinis, there was never a vulgar hint, but it felt organic and feminine. Atmosphere was so enchanted, the opposite to stiff that it was a real breath of fresh air.

Magda Gomes swimwear killed me and sent me to heaven, a collection for a languid and disarming beauty, like a siren. Imperceptible lycra, like hugging soothing silk, unexpected silver shells, rivers of chiffon were winners.  The unique print designed by Gomes played  with ethereal red coral twigs, ondulating flowers on a pearl grey background. It alluded to an enchanted garden that could resemble the realm of a nimph that met its own Neptune. The best accounterment of the range were several pieces of jewlery that include a cuff, a ring and a tiara for the future princess of the Oceans. Just in case you wanted to go on vacation and come back married.

F**K goes by a name irreverent and unapologetic, but it’s also Italian so how could I miss the show? I had the pleasure of chatting backstage with Mr. Giorgio, the creative mind of the brand. In a fun and hand-orchestrated Italian conversation, he explained how he decided to take the leap, venture off the other side of the ocean strong of two decades of growing presence in Europe. “The brand grew by itself, without investment in advertizing, because at the end, the final customer is the one that makes you grow."  

"We dedicate time to research in fabrics and trends, but our customers ultimately make us win the prize.” You guys, honestly, Italians are not easy to please, we don't get blinded by glossy papers or billboards, we set high standards before we give thumbs up to a brand. The collection was man and women, resortwear and accessories and nothing was left unconsidered. Audience was at full capacity around the pool that is a lagoon at the Setai hotel. If you heard of a ‘man at sea’ you heard correct: a photographer took the plunge in the pool to survive the asphyxiating heat and to take the closest shots. 

Sunday at brunch we were all called to social shopping which felt just about right. Sunday Soiree was the brilliant idea of PR masterminds The Rally Agency, retail therapy for a good cause with a splash of Bellinis. Organized to support  Style Saves, the non-profit organization that provides clothing to under-privileged students through fashion-related events, shopping a purpose. Needless to say I contributed to the cause with a mix and match bikini from Mare Cheia, funky rhodium and Swaroski crystals earrings from Cavana Jewels and a Panama hat from Regine Chevallier

It felt like a million dollar. 

TRENDS

Small, skin, mini, crop tops, deep slits, chiffon, sheer fresh fabrics and jewlery, thin chains, multiple earrings and knuckle-lets, head wraps and wide brimmed hats. 

Watch this space for special Q&As with some of these most amazing designers and talents. 

Investing in closet essentials: the art of more with less

“Kill your darlings, kill your darlings, even if it breaks your egocentric little […] heart, kill your darlings”

— Steven King

Does it ever happen to you that when you have something in mind, bits and pieces of your daily life come to whisper your theory is real?

In a more trivial perspective, this is really what went down: the weekend when I switch the wardrobe is fast approaching and I look at my winter clothing in a survival of the fittest mode.

How am I going to fit everything in storage? I can see piles of keep, give away, donate and toss, like in Sex & the City And yes, I always include a closet party with rosé and canapés because it makes the whole ordeal much more pleasant. 

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In a matter of a few days I first listened to an interview, dissertation on Essentialism. The Disciplined Pursue of Less by Greg McKeown and second was privileged enough to attend the award ceremony of the Pritzker Architecture Prize and the unveiling of the tent structure the posthumous honoree, late German architect Frei Otto, designed in 1953.

“You can do a few things superbly well, or a lot of things averagely well”

— Greg McKeown

McKeown's book begins from the idea that we are ensconced in the ‘you can have it all’ mentality in which we must say ‘yes’ unconditionally.

We live in the busyness bubble, an imaginary race to sleep less, be busier than  your neighbor under the false illusion of getting this invisible badge of honor.

Our days unfold through the tangled madness of long to-do lists that only lead us to be counterproductive, frustrated and anxious for not having completed tasks.

A life in which we look for more in a panting and puffing state, without really knowing what and, worst, why.

Greg thinks it’s best to live in a JOMO (Joy) state of mind and avoid the FOMO (Fear) like a pestilence.

Hyper-connected reality leads us not to think but to act in a routine that almost resembles flocks of migrant birds that, on a predetermined day of the year, all move somewhere else.

The solution to this? Less but better, to say it with Dieter Rams, that is: focus your choices towards innovation, part exploration of what works for you and part elimination of what doesn’t work for you. 

Frei Otto was an architect whose visions, talent, humbleness contributed to humanity with the simple concept of more with less.  ‘A good design never gets old’, confirmed Shigeru Ban during the panel introduction in a heartfelt tribute to his friend and colleague who was being awarded the prize after life took him away.

The tent is perfect, it holds up without a center pole, it protects you from the rain and keeps ventilation moving in and out, it’s white and blends within the environment, but more so, it’s so current yet planned and created 62 years ago.  

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Look, I am not going all Socrates on you, I am shooting a dart to my point, which is not really mine, as McKeown uses a closet as a metaphor to explain all these honing and pruning of your life, but I am really going to use the closet as the main focus.

What Otto contributed to my cogitations? The element of timeless.

Try to read all of the above in your own closet and it translates as follows.

• You can’t have it all in your closet, can you?

If you let your budget rule your closet you end up: frustrated (honestly, who can afford runway prices?), frantically buying fast fashion (knock-offs and the ethical dooming proposition of  wearing the product of a child’s labor), losing sight of what your style is while being drifted away by the El Nino effect of trends bombarding you and blurring your judgement.

• Busyness bubble is the equivalent of having too much that we don’t have anything to wear for the right occasion.

Sounds familiar?

• FOMO is the pressure of the hyper-connection, the pressure to perform no matter what, to spend your paycheck in that pair of shoes you saw that blogger wearing at the event. Or falling for the latest IT bag which will be surpassed by another at the dawn of the new season. 
• Hyperconnectivity: we have a daily impulse that calls us to buy and own without knowing why, without a rational criteria other than being prompted by the endowment effect command which makes us love more things that we own. 
• Timeless is the opposite of trendy and I will never get tired of mentioning it. Trends are what keep fashion moving and your closet alive, but when trends trickle down, it's time to move on to the next. It all makes sense when you are at peace with your own style where your way of dressing speaks your personality away. So, by criterias of pruning, honing, de-cluttering, cleaning, eliminating you master the art of more with less. 

With me it's a work in progress, how about you? Take over the comment area!